Marbert Man
Marbert (1977)

Here we have the Teutonic macho icon that is Marbert Man, still pulling no punches after a reformulation, as evident from the sizable ingredients list on the box. Its opening is shockingly abrasive, I was almost a bit shaken as I don't often encounter such a brazen aldehydic blast, but this settles within seconds to reveal a lathered up saddle-soap leather with clove and honey undertones. I have not yet experienced a more vintage version, but if it's any more stupendous than this, I'd be shell-shocked.

The herbal and floral elements are somewhat obfuscated by the monolith of aldehydes, but are there as sort of a distant chorus singing the praises of unbridled machismo and hairy-chested swagger. This Man hovers beyond the skin a good few feet for a few hours and if you aren't judicious with the trigger it will wear you and whip you into submission. Overspray, and you will pull all those within a ten yard radius within its ferocious lair.

Be kind, by all means, be what the kids these days eye-rolling call a "sissy sprayer," because if you don't, some of these incredible monsters will slap you for using a thinly-veiled homophobic bs expression and throw you right into the scene of Cruising with Pacino grabbing you by the nuts.

That said, this is a beast I'm glad to have in my menagerie.

Finally I've stumbled (recently while visiting a little old leatherwears-vintage perfumes boutique in south Italy) on a vintage pre-IFRA bottle of this rare uncompromising piece of 70/80's classicism. This authoritarian old-fashioned piece of commanding olfactory beauty is mostly something about cloves, bold patchouly and honeyed oakmoss (with leather-accents). A classic and quite masculine retró timeless honeyed-leathery spicy chypré standing on the same hills as historical pillars a la king Aramis, Krizia Moods, Guerlain Derby, Cabochard, Dunhill Blend 30, Givenchy Gentlemen, Acampora Sballo and funther. A rare piece of gentlemanly old school virility really hard to find nowadays (at least in its vintage vest). The general vibe is a la Bernard Chant in style and so therefore classically retrò, honeyed chypré, rooty (with a forest-berries and needles presence), leathery rosey and languid. The first crispy stage is hard to manage with, being by soon mastered by bergamot, kind of aldehydic (probably due to cloves), herbal and rosey, with aromatics swirling around, leafy floral accents, woodsy patterns and hints of spicy honey (lot of cloves). This stage is quite compelling and kind of rosey retrò with its blast of roots, spices, woods, leafy elements and aldehydic aromatic rosey soapiness. I perceive by soon a strong patchouli's presence quite mossy, hesperidic, rosey and honeyed a la Krizia Moods or Givenchy Gentleman (which are stronger on amber while Marbert Man being heavier on hesperidic/leathery mossiness), with hints of amber and honeyed leather rising up from the background. Gradually the mossy honeyed, leathery and ambery presence reinforces its influence with a dominant patchouli's leather-chypré accord lording throughout till the end. Cloves (which are a key note in here) as connected with honey, hesperides, oakmoss, amber and leather provide that "soapy/neutral/waxy" vintage chypré vibe which is dominant and synonymous of class and measured distinction. A supreme sense of honeyed class, laundry/barbershop soapiness and radiant measure a la Boucheron Pour Homme, Hermes Equipage or Boss Numer One dominates the scene along the way. The final trait is quite virile with a touch of warm ambergris. A fragrance epitome of an age of pure class, olfactory monotheism and loyalty, leather sofà, quality on refinements, impeccably tailored men and tradition. A fragrance exuding class, "orthodox" manliness and assertiveness.
Another disappered giant which is source of regrets and nostalgia.

I have the EDT the EDC and Aftershave , A superb scent nothing rough , nothing brutal or macho ( as was descibed by a prominent nose )This is a smooth classy frag , reminds me in various stages of Monsieur Rochas vintage crossed with Aramis vintage & Phileas ... so nice , i find the EDT & EDC have different facets that i enjoy .. a Masterpeice !!

"leather, leather everywhere.." sung David Bowie, a chemical concoction..but I like it..very retro and on the same wave of Aramis...

I can see why Marbert Man is a cliché… it is old-fashioned, super strong, and a long suffering snicker-fodder. It is an aromatic, aldehydic, leathery, spicy tour de farce. The basil / lavender opening screams "out-of-date" while the leathery / mossy base smugly ignores any kind of fashion of the last quarter of the twentieth century as well as the first score of the twenty-first. Marbert Man is neither smooth nor pleasant, but it does have character. I enjoy smelling it but I would not enjoy wearing it: It's too much of a cliché… although a sort of rare and weirdly-satisfying "up-yours" cliché. I'm glad I tested it and I'll keep the small decant handy to smell every once in a while… It's like not being able to look away from a car crash.

aromatic scent of the 70ties.it is comparable to drakkar noir, gainsboro, brut by faberge´etc.To me it smells dated and it is an old men´s scent.A simple, average perfume-nothing outstanding or special but surely this was not the intention when they launched this scent.Marbert man fulfills the expectations of a man´s scent of the seventies-aromatic,good flavour,very 70ties masculine.definitely not bad.