Marte
Battistoni (1986)

Battistoni Roma Marte (especially in its even more performing Eau de toilette Concentrée version) is the holy epitome of the classic herbal/aromatic italian distinction, a dry-spicy, bitter-herbal, leafy floral masterwork of virile aromatic gentlemanly classicism. Manly and slightly decadent (but at same time contemporary and anyway timeless), Marte is a gem of unparalleled testosteronic sobriety and a measured "serious" manly fragrance with no compromises. I suppose it was created and put on the market more or less around 1986/87 but I'm not sure about it. In case you appreciate (as kind of creations themselves or simply on a conceptual sphere) classic fragrances a la Nino Cerruti 1881, E. Marinella 100, vintage Vetiver Guerlain, Armani Eau Pour Homme, Sergio Tacchini, Carlo Corinto, Massimo Dutti for Man, Scuderia Ferrari, Givenchy Xeryus or Aramis Havana you'd probably go crazy for the even more muscular Battistoni Marte (or for its grassier brother Battistoni Marte Arte). Marte (Italian mythological word for "Mars" ) is the name of the greek-roman God of War and the amazing bottle (designed by Pierre Dinand) takes the effigy of the divine warrior's profile, created in the 1986 by the famous italian artist Renato Guttuso. Marte is one of the manliest fragrances ever created due to its peppery bitter herbal undertone and the role of astringent florals and assertive rosewood. The latter is in here the real king, throughout commanding and bold, a supreme key element. Vetiver is the second key note (alongside bergamot, dry geranium and aromatics), alive and kicking throughout (in its woody, musky, virile and exotic vest). The classic Marte is actually a rosewood/vetiver-founded mediterranean (mediterranean herbs, bergamot, hints of citrus), supervirile powerhouse, a distinguished fresh fougère (with mossy chyprè elements) and a valuable solution for formal events and business meetings. Luxurious and slightly baroque though in a virile/aromatic way. It doest not pass unobserved due to its herbal leafy uncompromising boldness. This fragrance, though "strong", is incredibly well blended, aristocratic, subtle and sophisticated. Measure is the key word in here. The top notes are citrusy and refined with an hint of basil, geranium and artemisia. The first blast is indeed aromatic, astringent and almost mentholated. Artemisia in particular provides a quite green and old-school aura as joined to a muscular bergamot and leafy dry bitter florals. Vetiver starts to emege immediately in order to slightly mitigate its dreamy aura along the way (as well as a more severe woodiness starts to unfold its measure). The heart is floral in a really modulated way (jasmine, geranium and carnation, overall bitter and kind of herbal, in particular carnation and geranium are really bitter while jasmine is more on the background) while the base is mastered by rosewood, astringent cedar, vetiver and an hints of tobacco. The note of rosewood (intense and rounded) is the characteristic element of the whole composition, a musky/rosey dry assertive wood flanked by aromatic elements, refined hesperides, hints of pepper, dry roots and probably hints of ambergris. The dry down is really gorgeous with its sour, slightly herbal/botanical, barely incensey (I'd say better "peppery") but still aromatic/musky mark. This is a dry floral scent with a lot of woody texture and a green bitter aromatic soul. The longevity and sillage are incredibly performing making this creation a really charismatic and temperamental hounting kind of fragrance. Marte is a giant, a real classic fragrance defining a well tailored, mundane and determined man loving good life, sociality and tradition.

Marte (EDT) is a true juggernaut of Italian distinction, dry, bitter, herbal, spicy, just sensational. The geranium and carnation notes are the real stand outs here, however. Of course I am smitten, are among two of my favorites in any classic aromatic as they pull a fragrance in two complementary directions but somehow create a synergy that almost feels effervescent on the skin. This is only further elevated by an overarching rosewood imparting an old world elegance.

Likewise, the geranium crossfades into vetiver, which isalso one of my favorite 'chord' progressions. Also, further into the dry down, there seems to be fresh tobacco leaves in the sun and a visit to a cedar sauna, getting smokier and drier down to the base. What a terrific development, and we are discussing a more recent formulation (as evident from the long list of ingredients listing potential allergens; hi oakmoss and treemoss!).

Also, can we talk about this bottle? Pure art.