Mayura Extrait de Parfum
Auphorie (2018)

Mayura from Auphorie. A lush, voluptuous Oriental-Floral perfume composition with long, sharp fangs. Oh yes, this one bites.

Of all the perfumes I have tried from the house, it is the least unique and peculiar(as some of them are), yet like most of them it is well-put together. It takes that classic French, big animalistic-floral motif and adapts it to the far Eastern aesthetic, Indian, I would say. From the warm and bracing blast of spices that open the perfume to the breathtaking heart filled with exotic florals and all the way to the heavy musk-drenched base. Jasmine rules the show with shy ylang-ylang and tuberose to support. There is a "warm-breath effect" infused to the flowers, making them feel alive. And indeed, they feel quite lively. Steamy, also. While the base is unashamedly musk-loaded. A bold floral perfume exuding a dangerously warm aura.

I believe people who love compositions like Casablanca, Salome, MKK, Bal à Versailles, and MAAI, would find much pleasure here.

IG:@memory.of.scents

Mayura Extrait de Parfum by Auphorie (2018) is another semi-bespoke fragrance from artisanal perfumers Eugene and Emyrs Au, although one that has had more than a single run (but as of this writing is vaulted). I guess interest in this one is enough for the house to make small "top-up" batches but not keep it on the books like the award-winning Miyako (2016), and I can see why. Mayura is a stunning perfume to be sure, an intense floral oriental chypre (aka "floriental") full of animalics and resinous base notes layered with skanky indoles, precious woods, and spices. Instantly I'm made to think of landmark perfumes in this field like Estée Lauder Youth Dew (1953), Bal à Versailles by Jean Desprez (1962), or Lagerfeld Cologne by Karl Lagerfeld (1978). The house theme is the sacred fowl of Hindu mythology known as the Mayura, a peacock that factors in to many traditions in India, and the scent carrying the same name is attempting to capture a similar resplendent vibe. Despite this, I can help but feel Mayura is a tad on the Western side compared to other things made by the house, but that doesn't stop it from being excellent. If you're looking for a slice of the Au's homeland, I'd stick to Miyako or maybe Eau de Nyonya (2016) if you can find it.

The opening of Mayura is a rich concoction of tuberose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, and mandarin orange. The heady indolic and fleshy sweetness from this mixture is evident right away. Mayura is not fresh in the slightest, not meek or mind, and definitely makes a statement about the wearer. Immediately from this opening "bordello stank" opening comes the dark Turkish rose, artemisia, oakmoss, and a virile amber. The rose and amber mix with the jasmine to make a familiar classic perfume vibe, while the bitter artemisia keeps things sharp enough for the chypre accord to take form once the base focuses into the picture. Mysore sandalwood, ruh khus (Indian vetiver), jatamansi (indian floral), and tonkin musk continue the Indian theme of the scent, while oud, hyraceum, civet, castoreum, and ambergris mix to create an animalic kitchen sink of crotch funk splendor for the fans of "unwashed sex" in their perfumes. If you're a lover of that mock-pheremone vibe then this is the stuff for you absolutely, and it all mixes with the oakmoss and last-stage frankincense to make one rock'em sock'em chypre accord which will put everyone with 12 feet of you on notice. Do we even need to discuss projection and sillage? No, we don't. I'd say use this where you dare, but be mindful of humidity and dense heat with this one, pretty please.

You'll either fall head over heels for this perfume or run screaming into the arms of a hazmat crew ready to disinfect you with a power washer spraying Lysol from the nozzle, there is no middle ground on it. I love animalics and furthermore very controversial uses of them such as this "everything in one pot" perfume. Mayura is most certainly that peacock, strutting all its feathers, letting everyone know that it's time to get it on with the big bird, so step up or step off. Since Mayura is an extrait, this will last eternally on skin, and you'll need to wash several times, plus launder whatever shirt you've worn multiple times over, to remove the smell of it completely. The price when new was steep, but a single bottle is likely a lifetime supply unless you wear this stuff to keep everyone away from you, in which case maybe you'll need two. Prices are insane on the aftermarket so if you're reading this after the stuff has been long vaulted or discontinued for good, I wouldn't put too much energy into seeking it out, since Mayura is just a "floriental" on steroids, with most things that inspired it still available in some form. Still, this was a Hell of a ride to experience and will either be someone's wildest dream come true, or their worst nightmare made flesh. Thumbs up.

Oh me, oh my! It's been a while since I last fell for a fragrance this swiftly and completely. Siberian Musk was the last scent that moved me like this, and I'm so thrilled to feel that old infatuation once again. The odd thing is that Mayura reminds me quite a bit of something fashioned by Russian Adam. Its animalic nature feels situated somewhere between Inferno Russo and Ottoman Empire, as do its lush, indolic florals (tuberose, jasmine, ylang ylang), spicy resins, and deep musks. This is genuinely gorgeous stuff that gives me the impression of a velvety-furred panther brushing past some exotic night blooming flowers. Half flora and half fauna. I tried a spray and purchased a full bottle 15 minutes later--something I never, ever do. Wow.

Edit: After having worn this for a while, I would add a caveat about spraying this on clothing. Whatever is most indolic/animalic in this scent is magnified ten-fold when applied to cloth. Proceed at your own risk.

As a vintage-loving chypre aficionado I find this gorgeous blend a stunner. I originally sampled a split and after a first wearing immediately went for a full bottle. Warm, exotic, floral and earthy, waves of honeyed tropical flowers cascade over you and thoughts of tropical nights filled with bird calls while silk caresses your skin overtake you. The rich opening of Mayura is absolutely top notch and the balance between the florals and the supporting musky base is perfection.

A holy aura indeed. Not too many scents are capable of taking you on a spiritual pilgrimage, but this one is. It entwines about your body like a lover, and as day turns into night, the peacock folds his feathers and nestles into your skin, shimmering it's influence into your dreams.

An excellent offering of the perfumer's art - bravo to the Au brothers for this lovingly-created and splendidly composed work.

For its first two hours, Mayura seems like one of those outstanding fragrances which one feels delivers whatever it may choose to promise. It's the full strutting peacock, iridescent plumage ablaze in the noonday Indian sun. It emanates a lush tropical heat but pairs it with honeyed softness, it preens but is also kind and infused with such uplifting tonal variation that those who are so inclined could take it for a spiritual experience.
I don't normally gravitate towards white florals; I dislike their diva behaviour and they often give me a hangover without the reward of intoxication. And as for the lighter hedione-led hordes, they never quite seem to hit the sweet spot, like some unsatisfying diet version.
And here I am, weak in the knees, after wearing a perfume that presents the most solar, saturated jasmine in recent memory as its star. It drips rich, dizzying nectar, all its indulgent greasier aspects are not edited out and yet there is also the contradictory freshness and presence of the living flower. Mellower tones of ylang and davana round out this superbly orchestrated floral sweetness. This symphony of flowers has the most amazing warm, soft, glandular musks as one of its basso elements; these are musks of animal presence and closeness, that reach out and embrace without smelling of the squalor of the cage. (Indeed, as Auphorie is committed to vegan ingredients, there is no danger of actual animal derivatives being used.) The other is a subtle array of woody and mossy tones – providing dabs of dryness, bitter and salty accents, that make the sweet heart of Mayura even more precious.
This may well be the best work the brothers Au have produced so far and their fans may have twigged – the fragrance is on back order already and seeing as it is a limited edition (I hope they change their minds about that) may well be gone before the world gets a chance to discover this creation that seems to be imbued with such generosity (the materials smell absolutely top notch) and, dare I say it, love.
I started this review with a reference to Mayura's amazing, mind-altering first couple of hours. What happens after that? There are two main stages of evolution in my mind. That amazing jasmine subsides somewhat and the mossier and animalic elements begin to assume a more prominent role; it feels almost like the perfume is taking on and conveying the carnality of the wearer. Mayura does dirty in the chic French way of some beloved vintage florals, with a satisfying chypre backbone. It remains a thing of great beauty, but now there are more referents, it's no longer seemingly in a space of its own creation which is the feeling of the first few hours.
And much later, when the day is done, it has a surprise. All the heavier elements fade out and a delicate, soapy floral emerges – just right for floating off into dreams.

Edit (19 June 2018): Mayura has been available again for a few weeks now. There is a bit of batch variation from the perfume I smelled first time around - the woody elements are somewhat more present and they are sweeter and more rounded, and the musky tones seem lowered a shade. Nevertheless, Mayura remains a blinder.