McQueen
Alexander McQueen (2016)

Interesting, especially for a mass market release. Simplified, it smells like jasmine mixed with grape lollipops and papery coumarin tobacco. But it's the way these combine that brings out the fireworks.

The mix of jasmine and grape candy is deceptively mainstream, though in a darkly goth kind of way. But it's the weird fusion of the indoles from the jasmine mixing with the spermy wet cardboard and gasoline undertones of the coumarin, all fuzed together with the grape candy, that creates a truly unique smell, openly disgusting, yet with a nod to the mainstream, but also uniquely beautiful.

It's a tribute to the McQueen brand that whoever handles their perfumes seems to actively try to put out works that fit his goth-meets-garbage-meets-couture aesthetic. If you're stuck at the mall, this is the one you should sniff.

Basically a sophisticated and chic nocturnal sambac jasmine. Supremely feminine and glamour a la Thierry Mugler Alien, carnal a la Tom Ford Black Orchid (the jasmine-tuberose "nectarinic" final accord gives out a sort of musky orchid-illusion). Mqueen runs the way of super glamour-chic radiant florals. The juice starts almost dry and fruity (yes vaguely a la Dior J'adore - grapefruit, citrus, neroli etc). You can immediately notice the huge fluidy-peppery-aromatic-vegetal (vaguely - or better- ostensibly salty-ozonic) presence a la Jul et Mad Aqua Sextius (initially almost aqueous, minty and extremely "streamy") and the sheer floral radiancy (you could almost swear to detect a sort of lily/lotus/white peony-dominant musky diaphanous presence a la Estee Lauder Modern Muse or Van Cleef & Arpels Muguet Blanc) before to assist to a masterful jasmine/tuberose's starring spring-time blooming up. Ylang-ylang is another absolutely dominant note, providing that super chic synth-cosmetical-balmy/soapy/neutral exotic spark. Surely synth vetiver exalts the piquant saltiness counteracting a floral "juiciness". Along the way jasmine enhances its whispering nocturnal caress bestowing this delicate nocturnal vibe upon the olfactory fatigue. Dry down is mostly a musky soapy accord of ylang-yland, milky jasmine and balmy-vanillic tuberose. Effectively I detect a remarkable resemblance to Madonna Truth or Dare which is finally cramier. I detect as well a tad of the Bvlgari Jasmine Noir's silent darkness and romance. The final "twist" is surely elegant and sensual (well appointed in its complex) though definitely not unique.

A spiced white floral strong and creamy, reminiscent of an earlier era in perfumery. This fragrance is strangely like the love child of Dior Addict and J'Adore D'Or. Tuberose and I are generally not on good terms or this might be a good choice for me, given my love of orientals and infatuation with florientals. Overall a great offering if you love spicy tuberose fragrances such as were popular in the 80's. An excellent representation of the category.