Mimosun
Beau Kwon (2018)

There's a great idea in here, but I'm a bit concerned about the actual implementation.

Mimosun smells like what it says (mimosa, grapefruit, and musks), but ends up much more complex than the sum of its parts. The mimosa is the star, woody and honeyed and vaguely floral, while the grapefruit adds lift and brightness, while the musks quietly enhance the animalic nature of the honey tones. This would all be magnificent, except for the sweaty cat-pee undertone coming from the grapefruit. At first it's subtle, curled up softly under the honey and woods, providing an earthy balance to all the bright prettiness, but it eventually takes over to the point where this really does smell like some sort of animal has peed in a bag full of decaying flowers and wood chips.

So here I am. I hate giving bad reviews to small, local perfumers, but I just can't wrap my head around that pee smell. This is so close to brilliant that it hurts - maybe something as easy as a switch from actual grapefruit oil to grapefruit aldehydes would have made this a potential mimosa grail. But as is, I think this would mostly appeal to fans of MikMoi's avant garde aesthetic (fresh but gross) or possibly fans of bright-but-funky classics like Czech & Speake's Citrus Paradisi.