Musk Oud
Kilian (2013)

Musk Oud By Kilian (2013) is a surprising turn from commercial maestro Alberto Morillas, as it is pretty much a full-bore musk rose and oud fragrance, at least within the confines of Western perfume tolerances, meaning it shows none of his usual phoned-in mainstream structuring. What Musk Oud does has is eminent wearability that speaks even to people not familiarizied with oud, but apparently have a lot of money to spend if they're willing to buy a fragrance from By Kilian, which is probably the point. There are an awful lot of Western oud/rose takes thanks to the proliferation of synthetic oud compounds in perfumery, all of which mostly owe their existence to Tom Ford and Pierre Montale, but that usually bitter chocolatey rubbery or scratchy medicinal oud feeling is not here in Musk Oud, thanks to consummate blending from Morillas. When this poor old chap is given the R&D budget and time to stretch his legs, he actually can come up with something that doesn't smell like the seventh son of a seventh son from the clearance rack at Perfumania. How much of this perfume is actually from the mind of Morillas and not Kilian Hennessey Jr. himself is also uncertain, so he might just be the operating hands here, not the brain.

The opening of Musk Oud is incredibly smooth, citric, spicy, and immediately full of the star ingredients. Bergamot, lemon, orange, coriander, and cardamom spice lay on a sweetened thickness that stays a bit tart and light into the revealing of rose, oud, and musk. Geranium uplifts the rose in the heart, while a boozy accord flirts with artemesia to keep a dark green theme through to the dry down, which is stuffed with synthetic oud, patchouli (free of its terpenes of course), muscone (of vegetal origin), and olibanum. There is a bit of norlimbanol assist with the "incense" note, but by large, this stays very heavy, dark, and refocuses to the rose, patchouli, musk, and oud in the finish. What you're left with is a rose oud that is richer than Montale Black Aoud (2006), but not animalic like an attar from the Middle East. The amount of adulteration won't appease hardcore oud fans, but everyone else will be happy. Projection is moderately high and sillage can be smothering. Longevity is not in question either and the scent reads as thoroughly ubisex albeit a bit more butch in the late wear. Best when used in cooler months or evenings. As a Western take on oud, this is more opulent at most, but certainly not challenging enough for the perfume as art artisanal crowd.

Now of course comes the price. This is still a vanity label from an heir to a cognac fortune that snubbed his nose at the idea and instead applied it to become a perfumer. Granted, he doesn't make the perfumes themselves, only the briefs and steers the creative direction, but Kilian Hennessey Jr. still sees these as -his- perfumes and also views the packaging/bottles (which are refillable) as keepsakes to be passed down. Therefore, in his semi-detached world of luxury, you can be expected to pay anywhere from $300 to $500 or more for just 50ml (1.7 oz), which throws Musk Oud right out the window for many. Conversely, you can go the authentic route and get a few mililiters of Ensar Oud or Sultan Pasha for the same price, so why compromise? For me, this is beyond the pale price-wise unless a particularly discounted tester or something fell into my lap, but even then it's a stretch because I'd likely never use it enough to refill, but Musk Oud is really nice despite those hurdles. Sample first, then decide for yourself if it's nice enough to pay what's asked, but as a member of a crowded scene, Musk Oud does stand head and shoulders above most of its peers. Thumbs up.

Rose, incense, oud, patchouli right at the start. Yup. I've smelled this mix many times before. Not a complaint, mind you. Something in this perfume creates a tobacco smell. I am going to guess the blend of maybe coriander, geranium, and Artemisia. I never got any citrus out of this as a singular note. Buried perhaps?

I get a dark, smoked rum note. Musty musk. It all seems to grow "darker" as it wears on; becomes more masculine. A rose and oud layer returns again.

If I were to purchase a By Kilian perfume this would probably be the one.

Another Oud and Rose combo that smells ok, there are too many of these fragrances out these days. The notes seem to be of good quality, but like like many of Kilian an fragrances.....Overpriced.7.5/10

By Kilian Musk Oud is my final try from the Arabian Nights collection, a mix of rose, oud, musk, and incense, mainly, with some other smaller contributors as well, which I don't really detect, such as geranium and rum.

Interestingly, it both opens very musky and dries down after several hours to be musky, with the middle few hours being more rose-dominant.

I quite like Musk Oud and find it pretty agreeable relative to Pure Oud given that Musk involves more of a mix of notes. I also prefer it to Rose Oud, though Pearl Oud, in my opinion, remains the class of the By Kilian "oud"-named fragrances so far (I've not tried any of the Middle East Exclusives, though).

As with the rest of the Arabian Nights collection, Musk Oud performs very well, but the steep retail price of $395 for 50ml is big ask, but deals can usually be found for bottles that omit the lavish By Kilian presentation that includes the coffin.

8 out of 10

Oud and musk are the main determinants of the opening phase, with a rose the first floral developing in the earlier stages of the drydown. Here the oud and the musk are not particularly sharp or edgy; this oud is much more discrete and smooth that in many other products, and similar statement can be made about the musk.

The heart notes emphasise the floral more - with geranium added to the fold, whilst the base is characterised by a slightly boozy and woodsy incense - very subtle but nice. The rose still plays a role in the base, and here, with all the components in the base coming together as a result of masterful blending - the oud is nigh vanished at that stage - this creation is at its most delightful and satisfying.

I get soft sillage, adequate projection and eleven hours of longevity.

Quite restrained and at times rather faint, this is a very discrete oud/musk creation fit for autumn and the office. It could be a bit more vivid. 3/5

This is the very last fragrance I expected to love, but love it, I do. There is something intriguingly uplifting about this scent that I'm guessing is thanks to the citrus and cardamom up top. I also love the way that the oud and musk make this scent deeper and more aromatic than the top notes indicate. Perhaps it is the push-pull between the lighter and heavier notes that make this fragrance so fascinating. It is decidedly sexy in a fresh and off-kilter fashion, and I would absolutely follow any man I smelled wearing this scent. Ooh la la!