Note di Colonia IV
Acqua di Parma (2017)

Acqua di Parma's exclusive line, unlike most exclusive lines, covers a very narrow spectrum of scent profiles. They take their cue from the original Colonia, pushing the DNA in slightly different directions. In many ways, they feel closer to the original Colonia in profile and refinement than most of its official flankers. It's a nice concept, but Colonia proper stands tall, and of the Note di Colonia series, IV was the only one to stand out to me.

The emphasis on resins and a robust floral element add a warmth to the elegance of the Colonia ethos, shifting away from the crisp, sharp citrus that defines the original. Here, the bergamot and mandarin is applied delicately before this transforms into a lightly honeyed resinous-floral creation.

What IV ultimately reminds me of, more than Colonia, is Cartier L'Envol Eau de Parfum (a fragrance I like very much), though Colonia is more delicate and less blunt in its effects. It's undeniably well done, but refinement is the thing here. It's a chamber piece, not a symphony.

I am far from an experienced reviewer, but allow me to describe this one.

The basic character of this is that of a nice fresh cologne, but these ends are achieved through unusual means. There is a little sharpness from the bergamot, but the mandarin is sweet, and the rose and orange blossom are nicely pronounced. It's not a touch of florals adding depth to freshness, it is freshness and florals at the same time.

One amazing thing I've learned about fragrance is that not only can ingredients smell vastly different with different contexts, combinations can smell different. Noir Epices by Frederic Malle is Orange and Rose, which is a big part of this - but in that it is burnt candy orange and a big dark rose - here it is a more moderate rose and a beautiful, slightly bitter mandarin orange.

The patchouli is subtle, not too heavy, and the resinous scents add a touch of sweetness, warmth and even powder, but not excessively.

This is unisex in the sense that it is definitely a man's style, but the fruity florals give it a sort of optimism and ebullience which we normally associate with women's fragrance. Unlike many men's fragrances, it dries down gracefully, without becoming heavy or overly sweet.

Decently strong, maybe a bit expensive - but unusual and well blended. Not enormously persistent.

Projects vivacity, sophistication. I'm not buying it solely because it's not my style, but if you're a guy looking for a beautiful, carefree warm weather fragrance, or a woman looking to stand out, try it out.