Oeillet Rêve
Bourjois (1935)

BOURJOIS – OEILLET REVE (CARNATION) (1935)

The House of Bourjois was established by Alexandre-Napoleon Bourjois at 28 Place Vendome, Paris in 1886, when he purchased a toiletry shop from actor, M. Ponsin, the former established in1860. He expanded into cosmetics and perfumes. After his death in 1893, the business was eventually acquired by Ernest Wertheimer in 1900.

The Perfume Encyclopedia lists 163 Bourjois scents, stretching from the first, Essence Fougere in 1890 to 2005's Masculin Barbare. The most famous of these is no doubt Evening in Paris (1928), with Mais Oui (1938) a close second, yet their Mon Parfum (1919) and Kobako (1936) were also stellar hits in their days.

Their Carnation (Oeillet Reve) from 1935 is little known and did not survive as a soliflore, yet it is still obtainable on the internet from private sellers.

This is a very light carnation scent. The clove support is not heavy handed and is only used to slightly deepen the similarity between the two, flower and spice. The neroli gives it a nice dryness and the floral bouquet adds sweetness, a touch of green, and a freshness. Still it is the carnation that is center stage.

A fine floral scent for the fiery personality to be used abstemiously as it projects quite powerfully. A little goes a long way.

Perfumista and collector, Alexandra Star, tells us: “Carnation is cultivated in many countries, but carnation absolute is produced only in the south of France. Carnation is often used in classical fragrances due to its spicy peppery scent, which deepens floral notes, and is especially effective when combined with rose.”

Top notes: Bergamot, Carnation, Neroli
Heart notes: Rose, Jasmine, Lily of the Valley, Honeysuckle, Violet
Base notes: Clove, Vanilla, Sandalwood