Onder de Linde
Baruti (2014)

The obvious danger of creating a floodlit, maxed out floral is that it will be too much for most. For it's opening hour or two Onder de Linde is just such a thing before it settles into a more polite discourse. During that period we have a wailing siren of a linden, with its naturally honeyed scent amped up with an additional honey note – this is ‘do you want whipped cream on your creamcake?' territory. There's a comforting greasiness to it that suggests quality naturals were used, a bit like the buttery richness of narcissus or hyacinth. Fortunately the green aspect of the linden profile is also amply evident as counterbalance, further bolstered by a rawer cut-hedge scent, as well as a curious pear note that becomes more evident with time. I say ‘curious' because pears in perfumery rarely work – they're usually too chemical. Here, that is not the problem – this is a greenish pear just on the verge of ripeness that does recall the real thing – but it seems to merge in and out of the composition as if wanting to strike out boldly in a perfume all its own before eventually making its peace and settling down. Shades of mauve lilac, a light natural powderiness and a wood and musk backing are the more understated elements here. And, quite surprisingly, when the volume of this one dies back it's the powdery lilac rather than the linden that is the lingering impression.