Oud Abramad
BDK Parfums (2016)

Harsh medicinal opening which took a while to soften on my skin. Interesting take on Oud, but not for me

I sometimes feel like I'm writing variations of the same review when I'm reviewing oud fragrances produced by European/American houses, and that's mostly because the same approach taken with one of several commonly-used synthetic compounds is found, with a twist of the knob here, the pushing of a slider there, until it's "the same but different". When dealing with oud perfumes (not attars) from the Middle East, much more variation is found as the oud is often just a base note in a larger composition, whether real or synthetic, making me feel like what Western perfumers don't understand is that you can't really replicate the feeling of wearing an aoud/oudh attar or oil distillation with a compounded perfume, so Middle Eastern houses don't try. Rather, brands like Amouage or even less-expensive ones like Asgharali save the "pure" oud experience for their attar range while just "playing around" with oud in the bases of their perfumes, which by their nature are meant to be more-complex. BDK Parfums founder David Benedeck seemingly understands this, so rather than go down the tired rose/oud, oud/patchouli, oud/saffron, or "pure oud through chemical magic" route like most designers or "masstige" niche brands take, he builds a perfume around an oud note rather than making a complex aromachemical melange try (and fail) to simulate one or two natural notes.

The first thing I notice about the opening of BDK Parfums Oud Abramad (2016) is the sour Givaudan oud note found in Dior Leather Oud (2010), Le Labo Oud 27 (2009) and Louis Vuitton Nouveau Monde (2018) also starts this off, with bits of ginger and saffron to give it pop. Soon, the oud turns far drier and more-medicinal, passing through a phase similar to the very well-done Oud Imperial by Perris Monte Carlo (2012), before becoming like a more-subtle version of the punchy synth oud in Bogart One Man Show Oud Edition (2014). Some dry rose and cumin (without the sweat) enters the noise made during this transition, until the oud steps off the podium to become background applause for a dry down of incense, ambergris (via orcanox), guaiac wood, and a light dusting of patchouli. The oud is therefore a supporting player in what becomes a nice woody incense fragrance touched by dry green elements that feel very masculine on skin but not overbearingly so, and capable of being dressed up for black tie events or professional gatherings. Benedeck doesn't sell this off as strictly an oud like Tom Ford did with Oud Wood (2007), but also doesn't let the synthetic oud turn the skin scent into a scratchy mess by making it an opener for the final act. Performance is excellent and my suggested season for use is autumn or winter.

Oud purists should go nowhere near this stuff because it doesn't have the rot, chocolately facets, or muskiness of anything they'd be used to from oils or artisnal perfumes working with real oud distillations or chips. Contrary-wise, fans of Western takes on oud that want something more sophisticated and potentially free from attempts to simulate the above raunchier elements of real oud could safely investigate this without worrying about if the perfume is going to plug a ton of patchouli or saffron to try and "fake them out" like so many in this market tier. I still prefer sour leather pairing with oud aromachemicals if I'm shopping for an oud at this price point, but I can really dig what BDK Parfums is doing here with their "oud-themed" fragrance that doesn't try to smoke-and-mirrors unsuspecting haute-bourgeoise buyers that want a pretend taste of the exotic. Whether or not this makes your test-list is determined by how you feel about Western oud perfumes in general, but I like the honest and very-wearable work done here. $200 may be a bit hard to swallow for a synthetic oud knowing what you can scoop up bottles of designer takes for in the gray market, but fans of stuff like Initio Oud for Greatness (2018) may find this a better value and more-unique alternative. Thumbs up.