Has designer fragrance been made obsolete?

The Colognnoisseur

Well-known member
Apr 7, 2013
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narrow-minded people couldn't get past the marketing or bottle
There are too many substantive fragrances that don’t come with the baggage of poor bottles, marketing, or names, to put up with these attempts to attract attention. Other examples are Bad Boy, F___ing Fabulous, Full Choke, Le Male, Phantom, Secretions Magnifique, and Fierce, to name a few. At least one can salvage Fierce and peel the tacky torso sticker from the bottle. At the very least, a fragrance company could make something worth picking up and trying, before one considers buying. Is it possible that the ignoring of some fragrances is simply nothing more than the free market revealing preferrences?
 

slpfrsly

Physician, heal thyself
Basenotes Plus
Apr 1, 2019
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Honestly? More people (especially here) should like Toy Boy by Moschino. Everyone loves their musky rose masculines from the 1980's, and Moschino handed us all a modernized take on that, which was ignored because narrow-minded people couldn't get past the marketing or bottle.
In all fairness, thhe teddy bear is nodding to something incredibly dark and disgusting, with just enough plausible deniability to deny it.
 

sniffer64

Well-known member
Feb 3, 2011
187
169
I don't think you need to have a philosophical discussion on this to figure out the likely answer.

They've become risk adverse because they are mostly (there are exceptions) owned and operated by large conglomerates whose only interest is profit and shareholder value. You don't maximise your profits by taking risks.
Are we still talking about designers here? If so, Creed, Tom Ford, PDM, LV, Nishane, and lots of other "niche" darlings fall within this category because none of them are owned by small privately-owned artisans.
 

sniffer64

Well-known member
Feb 3, 2011
187
169
@sniffer64 Which Habibi do you like?
My current favorites are Urban Oud (so good, even though i am not the biggest oud lover) and Grapefruit and Sage (which is both better and more complex than the name would suggest). They offer quite affordable sampler sets, and include a coupon for 25 or 30% off of the next full bottle purchase. 100ml for some come in under the $100 mark with the coupon. And such nice people.
 

Pippin06

always learning--often laughing
Feb 8, 2017
5,419
29,498
There are too many substantive fragrances that don’t come with the baggage of poor bottles, marketing, or names, to put up with these attempts to attract attention. Other examples are Bad Boy, F___ing Fabulous, Full Choke, Le Male, Phantom, Secretions Magnifique, and Fierce, to name a few. At least one can salvage Fierce and peel the tacky torso sticker from the bottle. At the very least, a fragrance company could make something worth picking up and trying, before one considers buying. Is it possible that the ignoring of some fragrances is simply nothing more than the free market revealing preferrences?
Excellent post
 

UESNYC

Well-known member
May 22, 2023
843
922
My current favorites are Urban Oud (so good, even though i am not the biggest oud lover) and Grapefruit and Sage (which is both better and more complex than the name would suggest). They offer quite affordable sampler sets, and include a coupon for 25 or 30% off of the next full bottle purchase. 100ml for some come in under the $100 mark with the coupon. And such nice people.
Bloomingdales has them. I can take a walk there.
 

Colbourne

Well-known member
Oct 5, 2015
331
1,789
There are too many substantive fragrances that don’t come with the baggage of poor bottles, marketing, or names, to put up with these attempts to attract attention. Other examples are Bad Boy, F___ing Fabulous, Full Choke, Le Male, Phantom, Secretions Magnifique, and Fierce, to name a few. At least one can salvage Fierce and peel the tacky torso sticker from the bottle. At the very least, a fragrance company could make something worth picking up and trying, before one considers buying. Is it possible that the ignoring of some fragrances is simply nothing more than the free market revealing preferrences?
Granted, this kind of subversive and overtly sexual marketing isn't my favorite, but I do think it has pushed the envelope in ways that the fragrance industry perhaps needed at the time (late 90s-early 00s), i.e. "it had its place," and I do recall just as much imagery objectifying the female in an eyebrow-raising manner that had not been highlighted by the OP. All of these almost seem almost quaint in comparison with what some "niche" and "indie" brands have done since then in the marketplace to transgress. Here's exhibit A:

154969_img-1213-tsvga-cream-dream_720.jpg
 

Brian5701

Basenotes Plus
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May 28, 2009
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Because "we" have changed since the 90s, so have fragrances. In the 90s, there wasn't the social media and constant online shopping/browsing/etc. that we have today. As a result, fragrance offerings have become more responsive to trends and whims of the day, as well as to the ever-decreasing attention span of people today.

We also have so much more choice and selection today. In the 90s, you would be hard-pressed to buy a Harrod's exclusive scent (as an American) without buying a ticket to the UK. Honestly, you wouldn't even know it existed. I've bought 2 in the last year and haven't been to the UK in a while.

Did people in the 90s even have large fragrance collections? If I had to rely only on stores in my area, my collection would be much smaller.
 

Varanis Ridari

The Scented Devil
Basenotes Plus
Oct 17, 2012
18,481
24,543
There are too many substantive fragrances that don’t come with the baggage of poor bottles, marketing, or names, to put up with these attempts to attract attention. Other examples are Bad Boy, F___ing Fabulous, Full Choke, Le Male, Phantom, Secretions Magnifique, and Fierce, to name a few. At least one can salvage Fierce and peel the tacky torso sticker from the bottle. At the very least, a fragrance company could make something worth picking up and trying, before one considers buying. Is it possible that the ignoring of some fragrances is simply nothing more than the free market revealing preferrences?
You're both missing and proving my point at the same time about the actual fragrance by doubling down on the marketing/packaging being offensive enough to your worldview that you'd refuse to smell (or possibly enjoy) the stuff inside the bottle for it.

I don't like the smell of Bad Boy or F*cking Fabulous, and the packaging admittedly doesn't help, but if those bottles were filled with something I like, I'd deal with it if good enough.
In all fairness, thhe teddy bear is nodding to something incredibly dark and disgusting, with just enough plausible deniability to deny it.
I'm not sure on that one, but I also know there are plenty of tacky or cringe bottles I've called out myself; but if I hated a bottle that much and still enjoyed the fragrance, I'd decant if necessary. So far never needed to do that, unless the bottle is too awkward to carry.

With Moschino, we're talking about a house that has Windex bottles, zany double-necked bottles and simulacrum of household objects in their fragrance catalog, not even speaking of their oft-wacky fashion designs, so it's probably (hopefully) not that deep.
Granted, this kind of subversive and overtly sexual marketing isn't my favorite, but I do think it has pushed the envelope in ways that the fragrance industry perhaps needed at the time (late 90s-early 00s), i.e. "it had its place," and I do recall just as much imagery objectifying the female in an eyebrow-raising manner that had not been highlighted by the OP. All of these almost seem almost quaint in comparison with what some "niche" and "indie" brands have done since then in the marketplace to transgress. Here's exhibit A:

View attachment 491410
Yeah, TSVGA absolutely pushes bad taste and the owner is a narcissist anyway, so fragrances like this don't surprise me. Still, if it was good and could be had without selling a kidney, I'd bite, which is my point.

People pearl clutch entirely too much over marketing.
 

Iamblichus

Member
Aug 4, 2024
7
9
Quite a lot of important designer and niche fragrances have been GC-MS analyzed / interpreted and made available for purchase. Also other open source formulas by the industry give a good indication what materials are used in General. Except for common essential oils the lions share is synthetics. Many current fragrances are even > 50% of (different qualities of)hedione, iso e super and some ubiquitous synthetic musk combos. Then Linalool / Linalyl acetate or even the purely artificial substitutes for those like Coranol or sclareolate.

Quality of ingredients differ, EOs from different sources can differ greatly, but as said those are only a small part of perfumes.

I would add that the proliferation of GC-MS analysis has revolutized the oud market. Selling adulterated oud oil has become much more difficult as even small perfumers can afford to test their suppliers. This is true for other expensive natural materials like sandlewood and rose oil.

I think we are sitting on the cusp of a natural perfumery golden age. One big problem that natural perfumery faced was the collapse of Indian sandlewood production in the late 80s. Theoretically the trees planted in Australia and other places, in response to the collapse, should be coming to maturity now. Hopefully we will see more high quality sandlewood on the market. Another point for optimism is that the Russians appear to be doing a good job of managing the musk deer population. It is crazy to think that we have a couple of generations of perfume wearers in the west that have never smelled real animalics. It is said that Napolian's wife wore so much musk that her dressing room smelled of it for 75 years after her death.
 

The Colognnoisseur

Well-known member
Apr 7, 2013
14,766
24,556
You're both missing and proving my point at the same time about the actual fragrance by doubling down on the marketing/packaging being offensive enough to your worldview that you'd refuse to smell (or possibly enjoy) the stuff inside the bottle for it.

I don't like the smell of Bad Boy or F*cking Fabulous, and the packaging admittedly doesn't help, but if those bottles were filled with something I like, I'd deal with it if good enough.

I'm not sure on that one, but I also know there are plenty of tacky or cringe bottles I've called out myself; but if I hated a bottle that much and still enjoyed the fragrance, I'd decant if necessary. So far never needed to do that, unless the bottle is too awkward to carry.

With Moschino, we're talking about a house that has Windex bottles, zany double-necked bottles and simulacrum of household objects in their fragrance catalog, not even speaking of their oft-wacky fashion designs, so it's probably (hopefully) not that deep.

Yeah, TSVGA absolutely pushes bad taste and the owner is a narcissist anyway, so fragrances like this don't surprise me. Still, if it was good and could be had without selling a kidney, I'd bite, which is my point.

People pearl clutch entirely too much over marketing.
VR, perhaps we do have differing world views. Regardless, I respect your fragrance knowledge. I always learn something new and agree with your contributions, insight, and reviews 99% of the time. My dislike for the aforementioned fragrances in my previous post in this thread, for whatever reason, just means that there is more for the rest of y’all open-minded, non-pearl-clutching people. 😉
 

Varanis Ridari

The Scented Devil
Basenotes Plus
Oct 17, 2012
18,481
24,543
VR, perhaps we do have differing world views. Regardless, I respect your fragrance knowledge. I always learn something new and agree with your contributions, insight, and reviews 99% of the time. My dislike for the aforementioned fragrances in my previous post in this thread, for whatever reason, just means that there is more for the rest of y’all open-minded, non-pearl-clutching people. 😉
I just don't see a lightning bolt, robot, teddy bear, or trophy cup as a big deal when I already have 1960's Avon bottles in the shape of boots, planes, trains, automobiles, pistols, grandfather clocks, pianos, and I think a mailbox too... 🤣🤣🤣
 

bisby

Active member
Nov 7, 2006
25
45
You don't know how many times I've heard people say their sex lives or career lives are over at 30; that if they haven't achieved a PHD and 6 figures, or have 2.5 kids in a cul-de-sac, that they're abject failures. Game over at the first signs of laugh lines.
This is quite sad. About 30 + years ago at a party for a 30yr old work colleague, he acted, voiced, and acted close to break down because of the above. I tried to assuage his concerns and was just a bit older, yet I did not even care about things like that.

It is interesting, though, that perhaps nothing has changed and people are still applying the same old standard pressures to their lives that are not really relevant.
 

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