Delete please.

Aetlas

Well-known member
Apr 7, 2024
49
10
You can drop lavender aldehyde and benzyl phenyl acetate.
I picked up Benzyl Acetate because I'm looking at the Jasmine FW 927839 formula and it seems to be the most used at 350/1000.

I have 3 priority interests to learn some basic accords for:

Rose
Jasmine
Musks
 

steventeddy

Well-known member
Jul 18, 2021
330
303
I picked up Benzyl Acetate because I'm looking at the Jasmine FW 927839 formula and it seems to be the most used at 350/1000.
Note that Benzyl Acetate and Benzyl Phenyl Acetate are two different aromachemicals. I don't see Benzyl Acetate in your list.
 

Aetlas

Well-known member
Apr 7, 2024
49
10
Note that Benzyl Acetate and Benzyl Phenyl Acetate are two different aromachemicals. I don't see Benzyl Acetate in your list.
Interesting, appreciate it will be dropping it and replacing it.
 

Mr.P

Well-known member
Apr 6, 2015
987
340
This is because I already have plenty (didn't include most the EO's I have) but thanks for the Labdanum reminder! added
One thing I have found is the difference between one labdanum and another can be huge. I would recommend a few different labdanum styles. Fraterworks has some very tasty select labdanum which has much less of what i perceive as a barnyard/cowdung note (which is stronger in 90% of the basic labdanum extracts i have tried).
 

Aetlas

Well-known member
Apr 7, 2024
49
10
MUSKS

Habanolide
Ethylene Brassylate
Velvione
Iso-Ambrettolide
Cashmeran
Galaxolide
Exaltolide
Zenolide
Cashmeran
Helvetolide
Musk Ketone
Tonalide


TO BE ADDED LATER DATE:

Muscenone
Muscone

ROSE

Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Guaiyl Acetate
Clove Bud "Signature" Oil
Linalool
Rhodinyl Acetate
Methyl Phenyl Acetate
English Chamomile Oil LMR
Rose Oxide Laevo
Damascone Betas
Citronellol
Geraniol Palmarosa
Rhodinol
Guaiac Wood
Eugenol
Ionone Alpha
Cinnamic Alcohol
Phenyl Acetic Acid
Phenyl Acetic Aldehyde
Undecylenic Aldehyde
Geraniol
Rose crystals (Trichlor Phenyl Methyl Carbinyl Acetate)

TO BE ADDED LATER DATE:
Rhodinol ex Geranium Bourbon
Nerol
Damascenone Beta

JASMINE

Benzyl Acetate
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Indolene Pure
Benzyl Alcohol
Hedione Firmenich
Ylang-Ylang III Comoros
Ylang-Ylang Extra
Cinnamic Alcohol
Cyclamen Aldehyde
Styrallyl Acetate
Gamma Undecalactone
Amylcinnamic Aldehyde
Lyral (IFF)
Methyl Anthranilate
Benzyl Salicylate
Benzyl Alcohol
Benzyl Butyrate
Benzyl Proprionate
Benzyl Acetate
Indole
Dihydrojasmone
Linalyl Acetate
Dimethyl Benzyl Carbinyl Acetate

Explored through the forums and came across some accords I'd like to play with and some repeated ingredients, I've chosen to explore musks and florals, this is for research and study purposes.

I share this for purpose of learning from your feedback.

Edit:
removed Aldehyde C-14 peach typo and duplicate.
removed Linalool duplicate.
removed Ionone-Alpha duplicate.

removed Methyl Anthranilate typo and duplicate.
 
Last edited:

Aetlas

Well-known member
Apr 7, 2024
49
10
IMO & IME, this repeatedly asked question about "what materials to buy" in the abstract is not a particularly useful question to ask or answer. The better way forward, IMO & IME, is to select a few accords and/or simple-but-complete fragrance formulas that seem appealing to you as a substrate for learning & then buy what is needed to make those formulas & explore via experimentation how the various materials function in them.
I've taken this information onboard and revamped my list of ingredients to match some accords I found lurking around the forums.
 

darkwitch

Well-known member
Dec 2, 2021
262
177
Cashmeran is often grouped with the musks, but to me it's more like a woody amber with some musk-like qualities.

Aldehyde C14 Peach is back for some reason😁 Same as Gamma Undecalactone, which is also in your list.

You have Linalool BASF but also just Linalool?

You have Ionone Alpha and Alpha-Ionone? They are the same. It is more a language issue. In English the isomer name is written first, so it would be Alpha Ionone (or α-ionone or alpha-Ionone), but of course many manufacturers use the French naming like Damascone Beta instead of Beta Damascone. I would try to pick one of the conventions and not mix both.

Both Methyl Anthanilate (wrong spelling) and Methyl Anthranilate is listed.

Lyral is banned/restricted/"nice if you don't use it" many places. It's up to you if you want to get it anyway.

Ylang Ylang fractions are a bit different, but if you want to know what some of the differences are, then go ahead and get both.
 

Aetlas

Well-known member
Apr 7, 2024
49
10
Cashmeran is often grouped with the musks, but to me it's more like a woody amber with some musk-like qualities.

Aldehyde C14 Peach is back for some reason😁 Same as Gamma Undecalactone, which is also in your list.

You have Linalool BASF but also just Linalool?

You have Ionone Alpha and Alpha-Ionone? They are the same. It is more a language issue. In English the isomer name is written first, so it would be Alpha Ionone (or α-ionone or alpha-Ionone), but of course many manufacturers use the French naming like Damascone Beta instead of Beta Damascone. I would try to pick one of the conventions and not mix both.

Both Methyl Anthanilate (wrong spelling) and Methyl Anthranilate is listed.

Lyral is banned/restricted/"nice if you don't use it" many places. It's up to you if you want to get it anyway.

Ylang Ylang fractions are a bit different, but if you want to know what some of the differences are, then go ahead and get both.
Synchronicity is crazy, I was just looking up the 0.2% restriction on Lyral and updating my list but I appreciate your thoughtful input thank you, I'll be looking over the list I have a week or so before I submit my purchase so I'm still refining my list.

I already have Cashmeran Velvet, not sure why I included it haha, one of my favourites so far, reading over your message and adjusting right now.

Edit: Applied all the fixes, sorry I have an excel spreadsheet where I have a long list of formulas and copy/pasted whilst overlooking typos and duplicates and mistakes.
 

cdieguez

Well-known member
Jan 20, 2024
200
266
If you're using it for rose, you may find citronellol redundant if you're also getting rhodinol. I find rhodinol to be much more naturally rosy than citronellol.

I would also add at least one deer musk reconstruction just to get familiar with it, like FW Nearly Deer or Synarome's Muscarome.

EDIT:

I went back and smelled some my rose compounds again, and I want to qualify what I said. If I had to pick one, I would pick rhodinol, but they're both useful in their own right. Poucher actually uses both in equal measures in his rose otto. They're very similar, with citronellol smelling more characteristically of, well, citronella.
 
Last edited:

Aetlas

Well-known member
Apr 7, 2024
49
10
If you're using it for rose, you may find citronellol redundant if you're also getting rhodinol. I find rhodinol to be much more naturally rosy than citronellol.

I would also add at least one deer musk reconstruction just to get familiar with it, like FW Nearly Deer or Takasago's Muscarome.
1. Citronellol and Rhodinol.

In my basket I have:
- Rhodinyl Acetate​
- Rhodinol Ex Geranium Bourbon​
- Citronellol (Natural)​

  • Now, would this be correct Rhodinol you are suggesting?
  • Would Citronellol be better synthetic or natural?
  • I've seen Citronellol in many accords, would your experience suggest it is redundant in most cases or at least less important when working with florals if I already have Rhodinol?
  • And does the same IFRA restriction apply to both natural and synthetic Citronellol? which I believe is 13.3 %.

2. Deer musk reconstruction, you talking my language.

  • Will start with the Fraterworks as I love their price range and I have like a dozen of the ingredients in my basket so far, submitting my order in 2 weeks so I have time to research.

    What about Muscarome by Synarome in comparison to Takasago?
 

cdieguez

Well-known member
Jan 20, 2024
200
266
Re citronellol and rhodinol, I edited my original post, take a look at the edit. They're very similar, but you're correct that they are used together in some formulae. I actually have the same citronellol (assuming that's the PA product) and the rhodinol ex geranium, and the latter is softer and more floral.

Also Muscarome is in fact a Synarome product, not Takasago. I have to stop writing posts on my lunch break, I'm falling apart here 😆

Muscarome is very animalic and urinous, which sounds much less attractive than it is. It's wonderful when used judiciously.
 

Aetlas

Well-known member
Apr 7, 2024
49
10
Re citronellol and rhodinol, I edited my original post, take a look at the edit. They're very similar, but you're correct that they are used together in some formulae. I actually have the same citronellol (assuming that's the PA product) and the rhodinol ex geranium, and the latter is softer and more floral.

Also Muscarome is in fact a Synarome product, not Takasago. I have to stop writing posts on my lunch break, I'm falling apart here 😆

Muscarome is very animalic and urinous, which sounds much less attractive than it is. It's wonderful when used judiciously.
" Poucher actually uses both in equal measures in his rose otto. "
That's where I took the formula haha, 200 - 200 wanted to experiment with it.
I wonder if there's a formula for Rose Wardia since thats the one I have, haven't smelt Otto.

Muscarome added to the mix, I guess I can't lose buying more but will miss out buying less.
Rhodinol is approximately 85% Geraniol and 15% Citronellol, - ish.
So you're saying I can make my own Rhodinol :eek:


Rhodinol | 100g = £127
____________________________
Citronellol 98 | 100g = £16
Citranellol Natural | 100g = £40

Geraniol ex Palmarosa | 100g = £44

Geraniol Extra | 100g = £17
(Unsure which Geraniol is the correct one)

The maths is mathing, essentially I could create my own and for cheaper, no?
 

pkiler

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 5, 2007
14,523
3,763
Aetlas, I've posted this at least twice before, I think, but I will post it again here. for you:

Rhodinol Synthetic formula:

Geraniol Ex Citronella oil- 70 gms
Geraniol Pure- 81.725 gms
Citronellol Pure- 23.275
Total- 175 gms

OR---

Geraniol Ex Citronella oil - 40.00%
Geraniol Pure- 46.70%
Citronellol Pure- 13.30%
 

mnitabach

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 13, 2020
6,104
4,254
Cashmeran Velvet is useless; just get cashmeran. Definitely get lyral; even if you decide to GAF about IFRA, it is worth learning how sad every single possible replacement is in comparison. As a beginner, you really only need Methyl Ionone Gamma (good quality) as far as ionones go.
 

Aetlas

Well-known member
Apr 7, 2024
49
10
Aetlas, I've posted this at least twice before, I think, but I will post it again here. for you:

Rhodinol Synthetic formula:

Geraniol Ex Citronella oil- 70 gms
Geraniol Pure- 81.725 gms
Citronellol Pure- 23.275
Total- 175 gms

OR---

Geraniol Ex Citronella oil - 40.00%
Geraniol Pure- 46.70%
Citronellol Pure- 13.30%
Thank you very much kind sir, this has been added to my spread sheet and I will be playing around with the formula. I appreciate and look forward to your posts.

Cashmeran Velvet is useless; just get cashmeran. Definitely get lyral; even if you decide to GAF about IFRA, it is worth learning how sad every single possible replacement is in comparison. As a beginner, you really only need Methyl Ionone Gamma (good quality) as far as ionones go.
Cashmeran added to basket.

Lyral added along with Lyfral by Fraterworks for the sake of comparison and IFRA reasons, I like use materials that apply with standards, perhaps one day I find myself ambitious enough to produce my own project.

I have 'Methyl Ionone Gamma Pure' from PW, smells violety, if purple had an odour this would be on the spectrum of it, i love it. Also I admire your background, God bless you and your profession.
 

birdie

Well-known member
Dec 11, 2016
524
95
1. Citronellol and Rhodinol.

In my basket I have:
- Rhodinyl Acetate​
- Rhodinol Ex Geranium Bourbon​
- Citronellol (Natural)​

  • Now, would this be correct Rhodinol you are suggesting?
  • Would Citronellol be better synthetic or natural?
  • I've seen Citronellol in many accords, would your experience suggest it is redundant in most cases or at least less important when working with florals if I already have Rhodinol?
  • And does the same IFRA restriction apply to both natural and synthetic Citronellol? which I believe is 13.3 %.

2. Deer musk reconstruction, you talking my language.

  • Will start with the Fraterworks as I love their price range and I have like a dozen of the ingredients in my basket so far, submitting my order in 2 weeks so I have time to research.

    What about Muscarome by Synarome in comparison to Takasago?
IFRA don't differentiate between racemic and l-citronellol. The latter have a more pleasant, natural scent and is what you get if you buy "natural" but they can both be synthetic. I often use Takasago l-citronellol that I find extremely useful in rose accords for example.
 

Msalazar

Active member
Mar 19, 2024
25
9
This is what i believe is perfect start for beginners in initial materials and can grow form here. This of course isnt all and restricted. I believe you should get whatever material interests you and you are excited for. This will help keep your enthusiasm and energy when learning perfumery as it is not a fast process.

  • Hedione (10%)
  • Galaxolide (10%)
  • Benzyl Acetate (10%)
  • Limonene (1%)
  • Citral (10%)
  • Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol (10%)
  • Coumarin (10%)
  • Ethyl Maltol (10%)
  • Ambroxan (10%)
  • Citronellol (10%)
  • Geraniol (10%)
  • Benzyl Benzoate (10%)
  • Vanillin (10%)
  • Cashmeran (10%)
  • Eugenol (1%)
  • Methyl Ionone Gamma (10%)
  • Virginian Cedarwood (10%)
  • Patchouli (10%)
  • Bergamot (FCF) (10%)
  • Linalool (10%)
  • Labdanum (10%)
  • Ethylene Brassylate (10%)
  • Aldehyde C-11 (1%)
  • Birch Tar (Rectified) (1%)
  • Amber Xtreme (10%)
  • Haitian Vetiver (10%)
  • Methyl Acetophenone (10%)
  • Cis 3 Hexenol (10%) (1%)
  • Allyl Amyl Glycolate (10%)
  • DihydroMyrcenol (10%)
  • Adoxal (10%)
  • Calone 1951 (10%)
 

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