Guess This Fragrance Formula!

ambrinolforthechildren said:

Seems like a modern spin on Dior Farenheit was my first guess, although it's lacking in the leather department?

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My guess was from the house of Dior too, not Fahrenheit though.

So how close were we?

The daddy said:

Is it a famous fragrance (that got reformulated and now sucks)...one that never appears on discount fragrance sites...

I think I know

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There were definitely multiple reformulations, and this formula combines some aspects of each.

ambrinolforthechildren said:

Seems like a modern spin on Dior Farenheit was my first guess, although it's lacking in the leather department?

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Not even close.

The daddy said:

My guess was from the house of Dior too, not Fahrenheit though.

So how close were we?

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Not Dior.

pkiler said:

That's a bunch of MOC AND MHC!

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It's < 1/10 as much MHC as is in Dior Fahrenheit (altho this formula does also have some other violet-ish molecules). This formula does exert a quite powerful purple violet effect.

L'Envol EDP?

Emanuel76 said:

L'Envol EDP?

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NOAP!

I will confirm the correct answer 24 hours after I originally posted the formula (at 9AM NYC time). BTW, this performs quite well, with a vivid drydown accord that lasts for well over twelve hours on skin, even at only 10% in EtOH.

This thread is like having a friend that shows you a good card trick but won’t tell you how it’s done.

I was in agreement with Insolence solely looking at the formula but you’re saying “no”, so I have no idea. I know it’s powdery though lol

mnitabach said:

It's < 1/10 as much MHC as is in Dior Fahrenheit (altho this formula does also have some other violet-ish molecules). This formula does exert a quite powerful purple violet effect.

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Fair enough. I haven't used violettyne before and wasn't sure. I'll try and make this in the next few days.

If I'm allowed a second attempt, I'd say Paris (Lancome, 1983; S. Grojsman).

Hedione HC said:

If I'm allowed a second attempt, I'd say Paris (Lancome, 1983; S. Grojsman).

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NOAP.

Casper_grassy said:

This thread is like having a friend that shows you a good card trick but won’t tell you how it’s done.

I was in agreement with Insolence solely looking at the formula but you’re saying “no”, so I have no idea. I know it’s powdery though lol

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Sorry, but where have I said "no" to Insolence?

mnitabach said:

Sorry, but where have I said "no" to Insolence?

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Ok fine, I interpreted two “maybes” as a “NOAP”.
Potential’s high for Insolence.

Casper_grassy said:

Ok fine, I interpreted two “maybes” as a “NOAP”.
Potential’s high for Insolence.

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MAYBE!

mnitabach said:

MAYBE!

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What does that mean? Close, but not close enough? One of its flankers (Insolence)?

mnitabach said:

MAYBE!

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I’M GETTING ANGRYYYYYY!!!!!!

I mixed this up tonight and I think it is Insolence. It's completely amazing. Thanks for sharing, Mike.

As it is 9AM in NYC, I can now reveal that it is...Insolence!!!

Mostly, the formula is based on GCMS of the 2021 EDP, but it with a few variations based on nose & some information about older versions of the fragrance. Most importantly, I think the musk accord of the 2021 EDP--solely macrocyclic musks--is ill-suited to the composition, and have replaced it (altho retaining the generous amount of exaltolide). I also increased the doses of violet materials & raspberry ketone, while decreasing some of the more powerful neroli materials, as compared to the GCMS data, to improve balance. Also, I used benzyl isoeugenol instead of isoeugenyl acetate, based on side-by-side comparison & preferring the former. I have been calling my version "Insolent", rather then "Insolence"...

Just an update having tested this out now with the natural raspberry ketone sold by PSH, replacing synthetic material. Based on the softer, yet more diffusive & voluminous, scent in isolation, I dosed it at 3 ppt instead of 2 ppt. Allz I can say is DAMN!