Perfume Calligraphy Rose
Aramis (2013)

Richer but less versatile than its predecessor, the original Perfume Calligraphy, this is an opulent spiced vanillic Turkish rose scent that sits heavy on the skin (a very "you're wearing a perfume" type of perfume).

There are touches that elevate this beyond your typical vanilla rose, like the nicely articulated saffron and oregano, or the ambergris accord that adds a touch of depth to the base. It eventually dries down to a rich, rose-tinged custard that feels a bit gourmand.

I can't say I personally love it. It's a bit dense, almost stodgy, on my skin, and, accordingly, it feels like I'm wearing something meant for someone else. But it's nevertheless nicely done.

Attention rose lovers: you must at least give Calligraphy Rose a try, and I will tell you why.

This is a rose scent that is not a rose scent but IS a rose scent. I know that sounds absurd, but it's so rare to find a rose-centered scent that isn't so dominated by a "Hello, I am a big fat bouquet of roses, smell me!" That said, the rose here is red, jammy, but also classic in a manner that harkens back to classic fragrances of the past. However, the other notes are vivacious and are not mere supporting players, as it were. The opening has an oregano note reminiscent of that found in Ambre Sultan, the fresh herb, not that shaker you use on your pizza slices. The saffron is there so that you ALMOST expect oud, but mercifully, it sat this one out, which is refreshing, as saffron seems to be contracted to be stuck to oud and isn't allowed to demonstrate its beauty with other notes. Here it does lend that characteristic creamy, yet bitter, mysterious aroma to the opening and into the heart.

Myrrh seems to seamlessly bridge the saffron with its own flavor of bitter creaminess in the heart, while styrax imparts a leathery woodiness. This dries down to a gorgeous incense base, the smell of olibanum just as it combusts and the labdanum is deep, dry, and radiant.

On a tangent here: but please, Youtube reviewers, they are pronounced "OLI-buh-num" not "oli-BAN-um", "LAB-duh-num", not "lab-DAN-um." While we are at it, galbanum is "GAL-buh-num" not "gal-BAN-um." End of rant! Go get yourself some damn Calligraphy Rose and revel in it, folks. It's a real stunner.

This is an incense rose on me. I get a start like Ombre Rose, a bit more powdery than I like, but a musky amber and light resinous wood tone keep it from being actually powdery. It's almost vintage in feel, this is a warm powdered skin scent with elegance, not over sweet, just dry enough. Full dry down is like an odd combination of vanilla ice cream and rose sherbert. I love this one, though it's a specific mood, so I don't wear it often.

The saffron in the opening is quite restrained, unlike in the Saffron counterpart in this Calligraphy series. Honeysuckle and a whiff of muguet are the other main components I am getting at this stage.

In the drydown a herbal undertone develops, with lavender and touches of cardamom, but soon the star of the show emerges: the rose. It is quite a bright Turkish rose, elegant and trim, with the herbal side a bit darker, and the added restrained waxy edge provided by an infusion of styrax.

On me the base is quite strong on olibanum, with a soft labdanum and musky impressions rounding it off. There is an occasional sharper sideline present, like an ambergris that is thinned out.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and an excellent ten hours of longevity on my skin.

This is a lovely spring rose scent, with the rose being of high quality and placed very well in the center of the development. Some notes in the base or a bit dull, but overall this is a fine creation. 3.5/5.

Bold top notes. Spiced. Slight herbal vibe. Gorgeous honeysuckle. Rose moves in moments later. This, is one of the best rose perfumes in my collection... The amber toned sweetness of myrrh and labdanum, blended with the styrax makes this a modern oriental. Lavender lies underneath. It's not too strong - more of a close-to-the-skin thing.

Then, you have a beautiful, warm yet creamy base note combination that embodies the middle or far east. Personally, I think this amazing! One of my favorites.

The rose saffron opening is just awesome. Those two go together very well. Something in the heart is sweet and/or boozy. While there it has a similar feel to Fahrenheit le Parfum, but slightly drier, incensier and less sweet. Projection was pretty heavy for the first few hours, then it lasted well. The labdanum gives this an expected amber drydown. I had hoped it would take a drier oriental turn. When compared to the beautiful opening, and sweet heart, I consider the base of this, though present, disappointingly bland. It feels a bit neglected.

All thing considered, Aramis is playing up a league, and does so pretty successfully. At a price point I see online of $55-ish, this is a good bargain. It gets extra credit for affordability and this raises its grade to a thumbs up.