Plumeria fragrance notes

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Bourbon French – Frangipani and Plumeria

Since Frangipani and Plumeria are two different names for the same flowering plant, I was intrigued to find that Bourbon French Parfums offered two soliflores, each with one of these names. I of course had to try both and compare and contrast. Hence, this review will appear on both pages in Basenotes.

The web site Perfume Shrine tells us that the name Plumeria comes from 17th century French botanist Charles Plumier, who studied the plant, and the common name, Frangipani, is derived from a patrician Italian family of the 12th century, an ancestor of which created the art of scenting leather gloves (jasmine, musk, civet), which became the rage when Marie de Medici brought the fashion to the French court in the 16th century. It became famous in Hindu and Buddhist culture as an incense for use in temple worship. Polynesian women wear blossoms behind ears, indicating whether they are single or married.

Described as a cross between “buttery and citrusy,” there are a number of scents out there using “Frangipani” as part of its name. A number of their note trees, however, use jasmine as a substitute for the flower, which is an entirely different scent.

Now, to the test. The BF Frangipani is sweet with a slight green undernote, similar to that found in pure jasmine oil, although there is no real similarity between Frangipani and Jasmine to my nose. The resemblance to the scents of such white florals as gardenia, tuberose and certain lilies is apparent. Despite the sweetness, it is dry and light, not cloying. My spouse detects a slight cinnamon accord, which for him, warms the scent.

The BF Plumeria is entirely different, opening with a strong blast of mint, developing into a chocolate/coconut accord. It is like inhaling a Peter Paul Mounds candy bar. As such, it begins as a gourmand. As it develops it becomes thicker, more syrupy, but still retains that chocolate/coconut accord. A bit of mimosa stealthily enters. It is obviously quite delicious.

So, night and day. I questioned BF perfumer, Mary Behlar, about her two different takes on the same plant. She informed me that BF derives these from two different oil suppliers and that each has a loyal client base, hence the retention of the two different names. This is further justified by the olfactory fact that they smell entirely different from one another.

Both scents are lovely. Definitely for divided tastes.


21st June 2019
218004