Pour Un Homme Le Matin
Caron (2022)

Pour Un Homme Le Matin (2022) represents alongside Pour Un Homme Le Soir (2022) and Pour Un Homme Parfum (2024 version) one of the most recent Caron's performances on the classic Pour Un Homme (1934)'s flankers/refreshments/variations-theme. Pour Un Homme by Caron Le Matin is a modern and definitely well crafted aromatic fougére Eau de Toilette lording in dynamism and virile freshness in perfect late 80's/initial 90's style. As well as by himself declared the main intention and the real challenge of the Maison Caron's perfumer Jean Jacques was the one to offer to the clients an invigorating (fresh and dynamic) modern subtle update of the legendary and iconic classic Pour Un Homme (1934) while respecting and preserving the originary soul of the vintage formula. Jean Jacques has accomplished its olfactory project by combining the main citrus-fern aromatic accord with a surprising duo of growed in Provence lavandin and co2 ginger produced by a technique of cold extraction (providing an icy tonic vibe). Modernity encounters tradition but with a significant deflection or at least concept's change without any trace of the original semi-oriental ambery-vanillic-heliotropic silky twist. To be honest Le Matin is properly a brand new fragrance under my profane nose, definitely fresh and well made but expressing a significant diversion from the original vibe, a sort of golf-club fragrance (conceptually a la Trophée by Lancome 1982) like something in the middle between the classic piney/refreshing/floral Eau de Rochas Homme (1993), the dry citric/herbal Nino Cerruti 1881 (1990) and something minty bleu (woody/citric/herbal) a la Thierry Mugler Ice Men (2007) or something like Cerruti Pour Homme (2007) or Porsche Design The Essence Summer Ice (2010). Pour Un Homme by Caron Le Matin is an almost balsamic invigorating woody-musky eau de toilette. The initial blast of petit grain, bergamot, lime-green peels, dry spices and ginger is definitely tart, herbal, vibrant and uplifting. Ginger in particular surrounds all the elements with an aromatic vest which is perfectly combined to lavandin and leafy geranium (dynamic, sporty and muscular in its sporty vibe). Along dry down the notes of patchouli, guaiac wood and musk complete the job in order to perform a quite sporty and dynamic day time modern (but un-original) aromatic "eau" (nothing but a blast of aromatics, citrus and "fresh air"). On this phase the aroma is really close the the most recent (but watered down) version of the classic Enrico Coveri Pour Homme (1984) minus the suedish/ambery final consistency (quite pale in the recent drugstore version). Performances are surprisingly strong for an eau de toilette, especially the projection which is definitely powerful and with a long jet. To be honest I finally find this fragrance a bit anonymous and redundant, most of all I don't get the Pour Un Homme-aura and uniqueness while I get an umpteenth sporty aromatic fragrance with woody accents as dozens perfumes out there yet tested so far. The part I mostly appreciate is the quite virile dry down (bitter, woodsy and peppery) and the perfect performances especially on sultry/tropical climates. This is actually a versatile fragrance for sultry climates definitely more muscular and refreshing than the original 1934-version but absolutely missing its gentlemanly refinement and the languid touch of other-age romantic dandyism.

Was completely shocked by how much I liked this.

Caron, of course, was, along with Dunhill, the first to put gender markers on perfume. And verily it is hard to imagine two scents that better capture the best of their native countries than Pour Un Homme de Caron and Dunhill for men, both released in 1934. The Dunhill is a dry, sharp, almost sour citrus; withholding, yes, but utterly confident and strong. A stiff upper lip that’s quick with a joke, James Bond is thoroughly continental by comparison. (Sean Connery wore Jicky) This is steelier.

Pour Un Homme is a round, smooth, warm lavender vanilla. Mixed within an inch of its life, it reminds you of those many dishes in French cuisine whose flavors are marvelously specific but whose ingredients are totally unrecoverable. It is almost nauseatingly even, placid and synthetic. also unstoppably effective with women. Try it. They won’t like it out of the nozzle and you’ll feel like a pudgy old dad but just wait. Dunhill I wear for me, Pour un Homme is a sniper.

Both houses have fallen on somewhat challenging times. Dunhill has had some success with desire and icon, but the Caron masculines have been locked into trend chasing for awhile. Their Fresh Night is somehow even more boring than blue and sauvage. Yuzu is a wannabe issey. Even old anarchiste owed something to egoiste. But two pour un homme flankers stood out as a goofy kind of promise. L’eau is light and charming and with a splash of citrusy froth, it was actually early to the trend of lightening up the classics for the youths. Habit Rouge and Number 5 have both followed suit, somewhat less successfully. Pour Un Homme Sport is the very definition of a cult classic. An absolutely absurd idea, executed full out; it summons the image of a balding old man, out of shape & in an unfortunate speedo arriving at the beach with a brand new board to be greeted by laughter and jeers, until he absolutely shreds the waves. You can’t believe it. It shouldn’t be happening, but it is. I wear L’eau way more than Sport but am still just so impressed.

Well add Matin to the list of unlikely heroes. It’s far farther removed from the original than the other two, and owes a great deal to Aqua de Gio and… euphoria? God, is that possible? But the opening absolutely slaps, and while the dry down doesn’t quite live up to it, it’s not at all offensive. When I wear Missoni pour Homme I always feel like, oh, this is what Bleu should have been. It’s obvious. And I feel that way here with the ozonic, melony nightmares I had happily confined to oblivion until Matin arrived and showed me how they should have been done. What felt like the opposite of necessary now feels fully self-evident, even natural. I don’t wear Aqua di Gio but I can’t pretend it isn’t a triumph. This keeps what works there but adds a couple levels of confidence and substance. I have a couple other Jean Jacques in the mail I’m suddenly really excited to smell. Caron lives. Fantastic.

I picked up a three-pack sampler: Pour Un Homme de Caron, Le Soir, and Le Matin. I'm thinking I really like Le Matin! I get a peppery scent at the beginning, and I thought it was going in that direction, but it dries down to something like a sweet barbershop fragrance that's very similar to Enrico Coveri Pour Homme or Borsalino, both of which I like very much. Le Matin has pretty good performance as well. I definitely recommend trying this one.

This latest flanker to the honorable Pour Un Homme line bears little to no resemblance to the original. The lavender notes are sotto voce here, barely noticeable at all. The top notes are sharply aromatic and balsam woods with a nice fresh citrus (all those lemony components don't lie). I also sense a big dose of mint in the mix. So right off, a fresh and zesty nose opener.

Patchouli and a very watery version of oakmoss rise to the top during the dry down but just barely and some quieter version of lavender stands in the back row of this composition, a sad timid whisper.

Unlike older traditional masculine offerings from this house, which tended to be powerful statements, Pour Un Homme Le Matin is definitely dialed down to a strength meant to appeal to younger men, fearful of anything too loud.

This is an oddity for Caron, even more so than other recent launches like Yuzu and even Aimez-Moi Comme Je Suis which at least bore some semblance of that familiar Caron-ade (sorry Guerlain) that made their older offerings so appealing. They are going after new customers and who can blame them? I just wish these older houses adopted a more leadership role instead of meekly following the trend. Neutral.