Rebellius
Ayala Moriel (2004)

Genre: Leather

Wow, there's alot going on here, and it isn't always easy to follow! I don't mean to imply that Rebellius is a disorganized mess - it isn't. What it is is challenging, and hence true to its name.

The opening lime-juniper berry accord is a brilliantly balanced blend of sweet citrus and conifer, underpinned by a hint of smoke. As the heart reveals itself the smoke moves forward and takes on a delicious hickory flavor - the kind of thing I've smelled in a an artisanal bacon, only minus the fat. (This is much nicer than my description makes it out to be!)

Fruity-green notes well up over this, but rather than clashing, they smooth out and balance the smoke as it evolves slowly toward buttery leather and cured tobacco. Over the next couple of hours, the whole thing melds together into a rich, yet elusive leather/sweet resin/green heart.

Though the two scents have only a few notes in common, the olfactory image resembles that I get from Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier's Parfum d'Habit: a misty morning in a western red cedar forest, where the moist air accentuates the balsamic essence of cedar resin. I'm wrapped in a leatehr jacket, huddled near the smoking embers of last night's fire. The smoke blends with the smell of moss and damp earth, and it's all rounded off by the sweet, woody contribution of slowly decomposing conifer logs.

There's certainly a vanilla/musk accord to the drydown, but the leather stays right there with it, keeping things from getting overly sweet.

I didn't know what to make of Rebellius at first, but this fragrance has grown on me with each wearing. It may not be easy, but Rebellius sure is worth the effort!

A foresty opening that smells like a good peaty pipe tobacco has just been lit up. Deep and comforting scent. I don't think the name catches the essence of this one - its less rebellious and more well worn leather. The middle notes become very dry leather and the drydown continues further down that path that has a well worn essence. Much more masculine that Espionage, this leather fragrance is all western Marlboro man in its dry leathery quality without ever going into the dark tar notes. This one can be tolerated.

I wasn't sure whether I liked this perfume at first, but found my appreciation growing after a few samplings. Starts out fresh, outdoorsy and somewhat grassy on me, perhaps a suggestion of exotic Asian spice; morphs in the midnotes into a fruity, herbal, honeyed mixture - sort of like a rich and fruity herbal tea sweetened with a dark, deep wildflower honey. The basenotes are deep and somewhat animalic, musk mixed with sweet tobacco and a rummy richness. A fragrance that evokes strange associations and dreams for me. Imagine hiking home through a damp forest after a meal of Indian food, and finishing the night with a mug of tea sweetened with Barbancourt Haitian rum and a pipe of plummy sweet English pipe tobacco with your beloved hunting dog drying at your feet before a roaring fire.