Rosenlust
April Aromatics (2011)

Not as massive a rose as you might expect, but one that's all business from the get-go. The orris-ish base acts as a cushion, and it keeps the rose from being excessively powerful. This is more about soft petals than sour stems as much of the acidity than accompanies the “green” ottos has been tamed. There's a touch of bitterness to keep things real, as it were, and that slight minty effect that's detectable in geranium is also present, but both aspects are coddled by the balsamic influence of the base.

I find it challenging to evaluate rose in perfume as it's a note that I dislike and tend to steer away from. But I could say with some confidence that this isn't a “drunk rose” fragrance, nor is it a particularly narcotic one either. It's not dark, nor is it melodramatic. It's not really blended with anything that steps on its toes, but it does feel spiced and sweetened. Uncomplicated and direct; warm and soft; there's really very else little going on with this one–which to me, nudges it a bit closer to my own personal idea of hell. But for those looking for a soliflor rose that doesn't mess around and is made from top-shelf ingredients, you'd be hard-pressed to outdo this one. Unfussy and honest is probably the best way I can describe it.