The Dreamer
Versace (1996)

Clary sage (Salvia sclarea) is one of those notes in perfumery that is often there in the mix, often to help adjust the levels of lavender and other aromatics, but seldom sees itself in the spotlight, and often even when it is the dominant character, there's little attention to this fact. Case in point: Versace the Dreamer. I recently ran across a GCMS reconstruction of the vintage version (which is what I also own) and it listed a sizable amount of clary sage oil, which affirmed my belief in it almost forming the crux of the composition, lifted by a whole lot of bergamot, supported by various aromatics and whipped in a fond of Galaxolide. To my nose, though, it's a full on tribute to the Clary.

Clary sage itself differs from Salvia officinalis in that instead of the camphorous and peppery qualities of the latter, Salvia sclarea is more bittersweet, richly herbaceous, with its most notable characteristics being that of the hay-, tea- and tobacco-like undertones. This makes it a great blender in fougeres and aromatics, and in the Dreamer, it's what really pushes the tobacco accord forward, without there necessarily being any other tobacco materials, natural or otherwise. The dihydromyrcenol cuts through it all, announcing the Dreamer is definitely a reflection of its time, but it does have this charm to it. It is that clary sage, though, that makes this such an enjoyable wear for me. It's a post-modern fougere, if you will.

I wanted to love this. Every note sounded great and I was really excited to try it on my wrist. Tobacco, Sage, Tonka bean, lavender, yes please…wait what? This smelled like the cheek of an elderly lady teacher who hugs you on the last day of school and some powdery foundation is clinging to her peach fuzz. She’s great, and unique, but not the way a man might want to smell. I couldn’t wash this off fast enough, in fact I couldn’t wash it off at all, it lasted all day.

I pick my fragrance for the day based on either the vibe I’m feeling or the standard I’m trying to set that day. Versace’s The Dreamer is by far the perfect scent to wear for having a quiet day/evening with your significant other.

The scent opens up with a playful fruity note anchored by the juniper before drying down to the tobacco hinged by the amber. The great thing about the tobacco is that it’s not the overly sweet smell a lot of products use and the amber adds a layer of complexity and seduction to it.

Projection is good indoors and longevity is decent, around 6-8 hours. This really shines for ordering takeout, cuddling on the couch and seeing where the night brings you. A very welcoming cozy fragrance. I don’t use it often but when I do, it doesn’t miss.

Also the price point is great. There’s no reason not to have it in your collection.

A gorgeous tobacco, in the '90's style, in its own right, but I prefer D&GPH vintage for the extra citrus & creaminess.

This is the perfect tobacco, in my point of view. Centered around a green-ish tobacco leaf profile, this doesn't get the slightest tinge of sweetness, as nearly all in this genre do.

Rouge Perfumery's Tabac Vert is the niche version of this type of tobacco leaf profile, but it veers way to sweet for me, especially in the heat and humidity.

But Dreamer I can wear nearly all year, accept for the hottest summer days.

If you can find the Giver version(original), or a later Made in Italy bottle, it really is worth the cost, at today's prices.

8.5/10(vintage)

A dreamy iris fragrance.

The iris combines with a bit of lily for freshness, a bit of juniper to stop it becoming powdery, a bit of tobacco to add complexity, a bit of amber for depth, and a bit of tarragon for spicy interest.

My recommendation: keep on sniffing the comforting bliss.

A “cruder version of Tommy”? Well, I guess if you live long enough you hear it all.

The Dreamer is, in a word, magnificent. And I’ll leave it at that.