Vent Vert (1999 Version)
Pierre Balmain (1999)

Vent Vert by Pierre Balmain (1999) is the third and so far final version of this once genre-defining scent, that has since passed into legend. After the first version perfumed by Germaine Cellier in 1947 had become untenable to produce, a reconstructed Vent Vert was relaunched in 1990 by the house, perfumed by Calice Becker. Both the original and second editions were remarkably close, although perhaps this was to the detriment of the second edition since hardcore fans would never except anything but an exact reproduction (which was impossible), while unfamiliar buyers in the 90's just wouldn't be into the kind of bitter-free greens on display. Thus, a third version was commissioned by House Balmain to replace the relatively short-lived second edition (now itself a collector's item like the original one), with Nathalie Feisthauer on tap to do a true modernization of the stuff. The results of this effort are still recognizably Vent Vert, just not what it used to, as it were.

The biggest difference here is the stripping of certain tell-tale notes that perhaps "dated" the original and Becker's reconstruction, namely the pastiness of asafoetida, and the chlorophyll-like introduction. There is still plenty of galbanum to go around, but with additional citruses, basil, hyacinth, and neroli to smooth and mellow out Vent Vert's trademark "green giant" opening, noses used to being caressed and coddled into the dry down are given a bit more reprieve from what had before being an uncompromising display of concept. That uncompromising display had been the hallmark of Germaine Cellier's perfume style, and Calice Becker had retained that in her version , whether intently or by happenstance, while Feisthauer here instead chooses to reign it in. The base is also smoother, more sheer, and a bit muskier, with no powdery sandalwood or oakmoss bite to get in the way. Vetiver plays a bigger role here too, as does an Iso E Super note. Overall, this is style chypre, but more like Ellena-era Hermès than classic Balmain.

Performance isn't really worse, although Vent Vert in 1999 format does wear a bit more transparently, without the piercing notes or dankness of the former two renditions. Of course, if the vintage enthusiasts weren't happy with Becker's respectful reconstruction, they would be in absolute hateful furor once they smelled the 1999 edition. Thankfully, Vent Vert in this format sold better than it did previously, and stayed in production into the 2010's, nearly twice as long as Becker's version had, and rivaling the original Vent Vert by Cellier in market longevity. More people in that case, were bitten by the green bug, and perhaps some of those went on to explore green chypres of the 70's, or even things more contemporary to the original release, like Cellier's work for Piguet. In any case, Vent Vert in its 1999 format is okay; but the fundamental changes made to its structure here make for a scent that to me gets a bit too nagging in singularity when it dries down, meaning I end up tiring it. Neutral