Black Tea Musk
Odore Mio (2019)

A definite thumbs down here, although not for the usual reasons of trend-following, poor quality, or cynical design. This one simply seems to have been released half way through its development cycle. Black tea and musk are notes that should have many Basenoters rubbing their hands in anticipation. BTM, though, starts with a piercing, unpleasantly sharp note of camellia (I recognise it from the garden), alongside a collection of some of the other stated notes. It dries down to a musty, not musky, something-like-vetiver accord. The overriding image is of a tea chest left to collect dust in a basement over the years as vines and other flora invade its space. I will admit a proximity to Chinese black teas that I have smelled recently. However, photo-realism aside, it's up to perfumers to make things that smell good. BTM for me is a challenge with no prize at the end of it. I'd welcome a reformulation and re-release, but at the moment this is so far from a completed composition that, as a mere punter, I wouldn't know what to suggest.