Perfume Reviews

L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme Vétiver by Issey Miyake

This seems slightly more aquatic than the original. Still has the DNA of the original though. The difference is the nice vetiver note they put in this one. It is definitely in there. Great for the summer heat. The longevity is above average. 7.5/10

Pour Un Homme Le Soir by Caron

One of the best stuffs I've smelled in a long time, a fantastic improvement on the original and glorious Pour Un Homme de Caron (1934) and for us a sort of new age Chanel Egoiste's languid (less spicy/resinous and virile but far more refined, silky almondy and balmy) cousin for the unmatchable contemporary classy man of the new millennium. A perfect masterwork of languid decadent elegance, unmatchable aristocratic dandyism and hypnotic silkiness, a fragrance to die for (according with my taste) in its impeccable symphony of strict olfactory balancements. Pure class, no question about it, a nocturnal modern Pour Un Homme's version whispering poetic words of seduction after the sunset. Pour Un Homme De Caron Le Soir Eau de Parfum Intense was launched in the 2022 and is a magic amber fougére focused on a stunning main accord of moderately powdery iris, aristocratic lavender, liquorous woods (oakwood extract, sourced from reclaimed cognac casks) and silky vanilla. Violet complements orris root providing in the meanwhile a more stiff masculine undertone while cypress is magically laced to lavender in order to provide a lusty aromatic green vaguely "anisic" touch. Finally tonka bean soothens the elements and enriches the smooth vanilla with a delicious sort of nutty almondy vibe while a tad of frankincense enhances the silky spicy captivating trail. The aroma even remains masculine, super balanced and restrained but in a silky and symphonic way. Le Soir is a more modern silky/suedish, spicy and cleaner version of the original more citric/woody/aromatic and less floral Pour um Homme de Caron Edt (1932), namely a pillar of classicism and one of the first semi oriental approaches to perfumery. Le Soir is a fragrance with the same silky elegance I can feel in fragrances as Cartier Declaration d'un Soir (2012) or Declaration Parfum (2018). Lavender, the absolute protagonist, is silky, boisé, vaguely coniferous, almondy and kind of anisic liquorous, revealing out all its aristocratic vaguely old-school appeal in a new modern soapy vest (two lavender essences has been implemented and combined, one from the Provence region of France and the other from Bulgaria to reveal their different level of intensity). To conclude I'd recommend this fragrance to men loyal to tradition but absolutely contemporary and always impeccable in style, shifted in to the future and seductive, a modern kind of seducer always well trimmed, reassuring and rich in culture and knowledge.

Black Tea Musk by Odore Mio

A definite thumbs down here, although not for the usual reasons of trend-following, poor quality, or cynical design. This one simply seems to have been released half way through its development cycle. Black tea and musk are notes that should have many Basenoters rubbing their hands in anticipation. BTM, though, starts with a piercing, unpleasantly sharp note of camellia (I recognise it from the garden), alongside a collection of some of the other stated notes. It dries down to a musty, not musky, something-like-vetiver accord. The overriding image is of a tea chest left to collect dust in a basement over the years as vines and other flora invade its space. I will admit a proximity to Chinese black teas that I have smelled recently. However, photo-realism aside, it's up to perfumers to make things that smell good. BTM for me is a challenge with no prize at the end of it. I'd welcome a reformulation and re-release, but at the moment this is so far from a completed composition that, as a mere punter, I wouldn't know what to suggest.

Portfolio Neroli Canvas by Al Haramain

Portfolio Neroli Canvas by Al Haramain (2018) is part of the Portfolio series of eau de parfums from the Emirati brand, and goes straight for locking horns with the expensive and overhyped Neroli Portofino by Tom Ford (2007). Now don't get me wrong, Rodrigo Flores-Roux does a damn fine neroli accord, one he's found fit to snuggle into many a John Varvatos masculine fragrance, as he was the unofficial go-to perfumer for that house just before JV had a shakeup. The real birth of that accord begins in the much further-upmarket Tom Ford line, and it has almost supplanted all other attempts at a longer-lasting eau de cologne at toilette or parfum strength, mostly on the power of Tom Ford's status alone among the well-heeled. As you might imagine, there are tons of brands, including high quality-to-cost brands from Saudi Arabia and the UAE, all trying to eat ol' Tom's lunch on this one, with Al Haramain being no exception.

It seems Portfolio Neroli Canvas really targets Neroli Portofino Forte by Tom Ford (2016), which is the even stronger version as some did have complaints with the original Neroli Portofino not having enough power. It's the usual overspraying numpties that use weaponized fragrance as a mating call or peacock feathers to ward off competitors who have this problem usually, not rationally-minded Human understanding how anosmia works; so if you want something somehow even stronger than Neroli Portofino Forte, Al Haramain has got your number. This is the singularly most-potent neroli scent I have ever experienced, and it is boosted with lemon and petitgrain, laid upon a thick white musk base, sharpened with some cedar, and given a hedione lift to keep the neroli front and center. This is almost potent to the point of nagging for some, and the closest comparison I can find is the aquatic-tinged Just Free by Luciano Soprani (2004), which is also nuclear in radiance.

I don't really smell any overt synthetic notes, no jagged unpolished lines, and is not as linear as one might expect something like this to be; all of these being wins in my book. Obviously, fragrances with higher credibility like Eau de New York by Bond No. 9 (1998), Castile by Penhaligons (1996), or Mugler Cologne by Thierry Mugler (1999) exist, in addition to a host of clone houses also doing their own Neroli Portofino takes. Ferrari even jumped on the bandwagon then discontinued their effort, creating a brief blip of a value competitor that was hyped into a sad little unicorn that cost more than what it was duping. Some say a lot of houses from the Middle East are clone houses, and there's no denying they do pad out their catalogs with easy-money clones done via GCMS and a little creative care on part of their perfumers, with this being one such effort. I can set my shame aside for 75ml of eau de parfum in a handsome bottle, selling for a price that's actually what most Tom Fords should be retailing for themselves; maybe you can too. Thumbs up

Équipage by Hermès

Walking through the pine trees on your way to the horse stables on a cool afternoon in October. A bouquet of Carnations & Jasmine in your hand.
The stables smell of fresh hay and oiled leather saddles.
The beautiful brown Mare you’ll be riding is named Cinnamon.




One of the greatest Men’s fragrances ever made.

10/10

Hypnosis by Cupids

Feels like a cleaner, weaker modernized version of Cool Water. Slightly dated. The drydown base is familiar generic woody amber but it’s not bad.

This is one of those pheromone scents. Depending on what you believe or read, you may or may not think something like this would work. But as a placebo, if this gives you that extra boost of confidence that you need to be your best, then that's all that matters.

Emperor Absolu by Parfums Vintage

Emperor Absolu is a very good clone of Aventus Absolu. It has that extra sharp, sparkling, fruity opening and nice, musky, slightly peppery finish. I do like the original Creed better as it seems smoother but this is a very good alternative.

Performance is sneaky. I couldn't smell it shortly after spraying the first time, so on the 2nd wearing I sprayed a couple more sprays and on clothing. It lasted and projected strongly all day. It wouldn't even wash off my shirt even after washing it.

Cypress & Grapevine by Jo Malone London

A modern take on the spicy aromatic (with fougére tones) masculine chypré theme. A darkly boisé fragrance from Jo Malone introduced in 2020 and created by perfumer Sophie Labbe. Cypress & Grapevine Cologne Intense by Jo Malone London starts promisingly close in smell to vintage Ungaro III with my full pleasure (fizzy spiciness, rootiness, some nuttiness and something boozy, in this case vaguely viney, in the air) but all this beauty finally (and quickly) evolves towards something more properly woody and barber-shop (yes in a generic way, not so distant in aroma and vibes from scents a la Montblanc Legend Edt 2011) with pencil shavings accents (overall with a really pale evolution), some ambroxan and a charge of spicy muskiness. This fragrance combines woody notes, aromatics, grapewine and a tad of ambroxan I suppose. The dry down is masculine and kind of generically spicy-laundry-barber shop. The juice is supposed to evoke a sort of british countryside's rural atmosphere during the fall season in a wine farm with all its charge of rituals, stale wine cellar aroma, earthiness and woodsiness. Cypress and aromatics provide a freshly spicy opening which is gradually laced to a blend of cedarwood and vetiver with warm amber and juicy grape notes. A combination of woodiness, dry spiciness and ambroxan closes the circle. In to a nutshell this is an easy going fragrance, not particularly evocative, dynamic and with performances in the average. It is not so evokative imo while it plays more as a generic office-scent. Not particularly exciting and not enough for my full pleasure.

Le Lion de Chanel by Chanel

Le Lion is a beautiful perfume that captures the essence of Chanel’s refined elegance. However, it bears a striking resemblance to classic creation by Guerlain - Shalimar.
Tis a masterful blend, marrying vintage Guerlain charm with Chanel’s signature sophistication.
If you can, seek out vintage bottle of Shalimar—it is the original, after all. But if that proves elusive, Chanel’s offering is a worthy alternatives. Just remember: Guerlain was here first, blazing trails a century before Chanel.

Comète by Chanel

Last month, I had the pleasure of trying Comète by Chanel, the latest addition to their prestigious Les Exclusifs line. This fragrance follows the release of Le Lion in 2020, another standout in the same collection. Like Le Lion, Comète is a beautiful perfume that captures the essence of Chanel’s refined elegance. However, both fragrances bear a striking resemblance to classic creations by Guerlain, leading me to ponder the direction Chanel is taking.
Comete is a modern "interpretation" of Guerlain’s L'Heure Bleue just like Le Lion was Shalimar's.
Beautiful creation - just unoriginal.

Shuhrah pour Homme by Rasasi

Shuhrah pour Homme by Rasasi (2015) is pretty unique. I'm sure nothing else comes close to this, especially at the prices it sells. Shuhrah also disproves the oft-stated "clone house" nature of many brands from the Middle East, who shamelessly mix in value-oriented recreations of popular niche fragrances for a fraction of their usual retail into their own lines of original products. Problem is, most dumb-dumbs in the Western world never venture beyond the various takes on Creed Aventus (2010) or Tom Ford Tuscan Leather (2007) these brands make in order to each the lunch of overpriced luxury brands based in Europe or the US, and the often vast catalogs of fragrances these brands offer home markets (but also allow for export) never reach the noses of anyone with online reach. Such is the fate of a Shuhrah pour Homme, a virtual unknown in the world of influencer-lead "frag armies" and minion-minded troglodytes bathed in their favorite YouTuber's top ten list suggestions.

The super unique part of this fragrance comes from its somewhat aquatic interaction with rose and tomato leaf, neither of which usually exist in an aquatic context. Mind you, these sort of west-meets-arab-culture mashups also have to hold up to the punishing heat of the Persian Gulf; so not only must the scents be thick and oily, but the accords themselves potent and extroverted not to burn off into anonymity in the high heat. Rose, tomato leaf, aquatic ozone elements, and the odd choice of freesia do just that; any other materials beyond this point just base out these main elements. A dry leather and woodiness permeate the dry down to this effect, with cedarwood, sandalwood, jasmine hedione, incense, and a touch of medicinal agar punching through the musk choices, which straddle clean and a bit sour; yet on the same token I would not claim this as animalic in any meaningful way. Performance is absolutely bananas, so really be careful with this one, and expect people to notice you; I don't think it's possible not to notice something simultaneously green and leafy, floral and aquatic, woody and musky, yet clean all at once.

Shuhrah certainly has hallmarks of traditional Arab perfumery all over it, with the prerequisite oud and rose notes being major players, while the modern occidental elements are not to be overlooked either, as this thing is jam-packed with all the buzzword aromachems you can likely think of, be they boogeymen to avoid, or innovations to praise. Another fatty, phenolic, syrupy, or churchy exercise in rose, oud, incense, amber, or patchouli this is not; so if you're looking for that sort of "rockin' the casbah" sort of vibe, better stick to the attars, or various products from Al Rehab and Montale which present that theme in a spray format. Here we have modern designer-adjacent Arab perfumery using both technology and reverence to cultural authenticity, yet also worldly enough that even a milquetoast shmuck from a sleepy suburb in Indiana whose favorite flavor is mayonnaise can get behind this. For the price asked, I don't really see why more people don't take the plunge. Thumbs up

L'Attesa by Masque

I first noticed the Masque Milano line when I did a search for Meo Fusciuni, and found that Giuseppe Imprezzabile had a fragrance for Masque, Luci Ed Ombra. (More on that elsewhere.) But what was this line, "Masque Milano"? I learned that it is a kind of Italian anthology of international perfumery, one scent per "nose," which made my heart surge. Italian perfumery has been my true love--for now; it could soon be Dior or Guerlain or Chanel again. I find it characterized by experimental uses of high quality raw ingredients, for a visceral encounter with plants translated through aromachemicals. Meo Fusciuni is the name of a Sicilian herbalist doctor who founded that house in 2010, and Imprezzabile's fragrances can indeed have a medicinal quality, especially in their opening. I love plants, and medicinal traditions. So I was fascinated to explore the creators Masque was drawing into its Milanese fold. The line was co-founded by Allessandro Brun, who passed away in Spring 2024. For whatever reason, the scents can be had for more lower prices these days than at their launch. A basenoter recently commented to the effect that Imprezzabile was a rank experimenter compared to Luca Maffei, whose creations I had never smelled, and so when I saw Maffei's L'Attesa at Masque Milano being sold in the $80 range, I had to splurge. More accurately, after reading Strangelight's 2023 review (below) of the 2016 fragrance, I felt intuitively that the perfume had been perfectly described, and that I could safely do a blind buy. In a sense, there is no reason for me to say more than "Read the review by Strangelight." But I can add a bit more. My first impression was that it was waxy; then citrussy, with some spice; but almost detergent-y in its complex earthy, powdery, medicinal kind of representation. I realized this was my first real encounter with the almost mythical earthy iris and iris root. I had sprayed it on my hand before bed, but it woke my senses rather than soothing them, and I got back out of bed, and sprayed more. The orris butter has an almost bourbon-like potency. There is a rough grassy floral greenness like an uncultivated summer field, with yeasty edges. But then a clear iris floral note, flanked by the sweetness of ylang ylang, emerges. The waxy, lipstick-like quality, which Masque describes as being like the vinyl of a record playing jazz, is now more of a leathery foundation for these other notes. I find it on the masculine side; for my husband, it was more feminine. This is a vigorous, shapeshifting fragrance that evokes a chance confluence of scents in gardening. My exploratory instincts are aroused and keep active. I do see a slight resemblance to Chanel's 31 Rue Cambon, but the latter, by contrast, seems censored into salon graciousness. The two perfumes L'Atessa most reminds me of, in terms of technique, are both Meo Fusciuni: Viole nere with its woody, parchmenty violet, and Odor 93 for a patchouli so earthy it comes across almost as sasparilla or spearmint on a first sniff. In any case, this is pretty deep experience in a bottle.

MYSLF Le Parfum by Yves Saint Laurent

MYSLF Le Parfum by Yves Saint Laurent (2024) is an expected move. Thicker, richer, ooey and gooey, this is the sweet and heavier gourmand-inflected version of the original MYSLF by Yves Saint Laurent (2023) released the previous year, that nobody knew they wanted (or nobody wanted). I was not keen on the original, but I have a softer view on this one, since it turns out that cranking up the ethyl maltol tonka steroids is just what this needed to actually go out into the world and smell like a proper fragrance, not dryer sheets.

I'll keep this short and sweet; you won't like this if you didn't like MYSLF, but you might sit better with it because of the rounding and balancing; and if you did like MYSLF, then you'll probably absolutely love this, since you're in that target market L'Oréal is chasing, where ever more-expensive performance-built club-bangers for the 20 something crowd seem to be the breadwinners of the remaining designer fragrance market. Where this compares favorably, is as a men's counterpart to Libre by Yves Saint Laurent (2019), but I'd just wear Libre instead.

Bottom line here is I miss the days where I could write epic paeans about Yves Saint Laurent releases, how boundary-pushing or novel they were, how subversive or clever with re-inventing an old concept with a new twist, or just being plain but evidently high-quality was okay too, approaching Chanel's level of filigree and finesse. Sadly, that ship about 15 years ago, after the man himself left this world and the all-devouring wyrm that is L'Oréal tossed YSL into a corner like a spoiled brat with a broken toy, sending what remained off to the mines to churn out trend-chasing trash. This is just a slight mark above that din. Neutral

Allure Homme Sport Superleggera by Chanel

Allure Homme Sport Superleggera by Chanel (2024) was a bit of a surprise announcement, to the point people believed it a hoax; the almighty Chanel would never lower themselves to work on a cross-promotion with an unrelated brand. However, times are tight; the richer get richer still, and vast swaths of people form Mad Max-style caravans of improvised shelters because they can't afford homes even on income three times the median, with empty apartments at $3k a pop looking more and more like Monopoly houses sat on properties to increase return on investment when sold from one venture capitalist kraken to another. And amidst it all, brands like Chanel cannot possibly further optimize profits versus costs from the shrinking market they target, so they resort to petty tricks to sell bottles, including limited editions with cross-branding. Despite all this cynicism, the scent works and is quite nice, albeit probably not "the new Chanel masculine" terminally-online fragrance enthusiasts have been clamoring for since the Pandemic. There is no revolution in a bottle here folks, and there honestly never has been for this line, any entries of it.

What we have here is Olivier Polge, inheritor of his father's 40 year dynastic reputation at Parfums Chanel, stretching his legs with a mainstream men's release for the first time since he took over in 2014. It only took him a decade to reach the conclusion that he couldn't work on high-margin Les Exclusifs releases or parfum flankers forever, so he gave us this "Bleu de Allure" reworking of the original Chanel Allure Homme (1999) DNA, tossing in hints of Allure Homme Sport by Chanel (2004); but shedding any aquatic nuances that scent had as ostensible competition for market giant Acqua Di Giò pour Homme by Giorgio Armani (1996), in favor of the grapefruit and zingy woody-amber profile popularized by best-seller Bleu de Chanel (2010). This hybridization seems low-hanging fruit, and it probably is; but again, if you told me that there was a fresh, clean, long-lasting version of Allure Homme with the best parts of the sport line, minus tonka sweetness or obvious citrus, I'd be all over it. Comparisons to the base of Dior Sauvage (2015) will likely also occur thanks to an abundance of ambroxan, norlimbanol, and sharp patchouli isolates, but it isn't a problem here. Performance is also unquestioned here, depsite what the nose-dead oversprayers may tell you across the internet.

So who is this for? Well, by the marketing collaboration with the automotive equivalent of a Supreme logo, and the "strictly limited" nature that is soon to make it the next $800 trophy purchase on eBay, my guess is the same as yours, likely. The usual clout-obsessed types that dress like extras in a mafia movie or compulsively post gym selfies on their fragrance account are probably the main target, and they're just one YouTube breakthrough away from being the next overstimulated fragrance "guru" who thinks they've found God after one spray too many of their sponsored scent of the day. All the good little boys that want to be like their "glorious leader" influencer of choice will probably also drop the $172 for this (most expensive Allure Homme flanker to date by the way), because they were convinced it was made limited for being "too good". Everyone else can pick it up for the collector's itch, or pass until Olivier Polge uses the sales results to determine whether some or all of it will transfer over to a new permanent Allure Homme flanker, or become the Chanel Bois Noir (1987) to a new age Chanel Égoïste (1990); ergo, being re-released mostly unchanged under a different name to start a new line. Either way, Chanel is up to their old trick of probing the market with limited releases, and this one happens to be good. Thumbs up

Chypre Fulminare by Naughton & Wilson

Naughton & Wilson Chypre Fulminare is the third release of the house (2022), the follow-up the fresh/spicy gems Gravitas (2020) and Bon Viveur (2021), the former being spicier and the latter being fresher, both excellent. Chypre Fulminare is darker than both, a chypre, yes, but dense with notes of frankincense, leather, castoreum, and pepper that add a lot of intensity to the more standard chypre/fougere-type formula of citrus, florals, and oakmoss. It’s not quite as versatile as Gravitas or Bon Viveur but is similar superb in sophistication and seems very thoroughly-conceived; it’s just a bit more apt for cooler weather and evening wear than it is for warm weather and daytime wear, in general, in my opinion. But it’s just as much of an achievement as the other two. I do like the spicier, borderline-animalic take on the chypre concept, a bit experimental and daring while still quite classy and not too over-the-top, arguably a bit restrained in its edginess.

The house’s UK website does not seem to list Chypre Fulminare but it is still sold in the US by Luckyscent, priced at $125 for 100ml, very reasonable in the current market. So perhaps it’s been discontinued? I’m not sure. Look into it, I’d say, if you haven’t yet. The current deals on the house site for Gravitas and Bon Viveur are quite exceptional, also, if you’ve not tried either of those.

8 out of 10

Black Meisterstuck by Montblanc

A really dark and enigmatic take on fluidy spicy smokey/nutty frankincense by Montblanc. The enigma of dark smoky amber. A gorgeous and really grand oriental modern fragrance for sneaky mysterious darkly suited metropolitain fellows. Black Meisterstuck by Montblanc is actually an ambery resinous woodsy fragrance for men launched in 2024 and performed by the talented perfumer Jordi Fernández. If you particularly appreciate creations a la Ojar Encens Cuivre (2023), Robert Piguet Casbah (2012) or Louis Vuitton Ombre Nomade (2018) but also conceptually pop cult creations a la Costume National Scent Intense (2002) this fragrance would probably appeal your senses. Under my profane nose Black Meisterstuck is all about smokey (by simil toasted coffee-nuances veined) amber, fluidy spicy frankincense, hints of silky suede and cool virile earthy vetiver. Amber is oudish resinous, freshly boisé, fluidy spicy, vaguely furry and veined by an undisherned suedish-nutty-chocolatey spark (the modern twist of this olfactory fatigue). Frankincense is in particular modernly rendered in a fresh, silky/suedish, fancy (well trimmed and metropolitan like) and never liturgical way. I don't get a laborious evolution while performances are great (either duration and sillage). Vetiver and hints of citrus provide a fresh virile earthiness which is woodsy and slightly metallic. Finally silky, cardamomish and smokey boisé this fragrance is a perfect olfactory companion for dark rendez-vous, "missions" in a down town dangerous club and romantic encounters. Thumbs up.

Bon Monsieur by Rogue Perfumery

Bon Monsieur is quickly becoming one of my favourite scents. Oakmoss and lavender dominate the smell, reminds me of a cross between the oakmoss driven Paco Rabanne pour homme and the lavender driven vibe of Duc de Vervins or Drakkar Noir. If you like any of those scents this one is an absolute must smell

Sandalwood by Odore Mio

A strangely compelling and well-designed Sandalwood cologne. This description also fits a similar scent - Trumper's Sandalwood - as it is also designated at cologne strength, and successfully showcases its main ingredient in a characterful, approachable, and long-lasting composition. The Odore Mio effort goes on lighter, with more evident top notes in the form of citrus, but dries down in comforting fashion with a touch of benzoin or incense through to a sandalwood accord with a touch of vanilla and other woods. If you can do sandalwood well, you don't need too much adornment. Odore Mio have resisted any temptation they might have had to guild the lily or give the composition a daft name. Solid design, good longevity - one of the best from the house so far, at least in my reviews.

Singulier by Boucheron

Boucheron Singulier is a cool musky aromatic deeply blue fragrance appointed for Boucheron by perfumer Caroline Dumur and launched on the market in 2022. This fragrance follows the Dior Sauvage EdT's olfactory trend although it can't be defined properly a dupe of the taking the world by storm former Dior's top seller. Actually Singulier possesses an its own special aromatic peculiarity which is countersigned by a general muskiness, a more moderate spicy rootiness, a touch of undiscerned saltiness and a sort of fluidy kind of cardamomish inebriating aura. While smelling Boucheron Singulier it seems to inhale something combining the original Dior Sauvage Edt with the great Heaven Chopard (1984) and with a minimal hint of Narciso Rodriguez for Him Bleu Noir (2015). The juice is peppery and balsamic, masculine and energizing, salty and laundry, earthy and fluidy. Lavender (a key note), juniper berries and aromatics connect citric zestiness with ambroxan and a final exotic woodiness in a beautiful mix of coolness, oceanic saltiness and musky piquant virility. This fragrance works pretty well on sultry climates and general tropical humidity, it exalts the note of lavender in a vibrant woody exotic vest. Vetiver provides a touch of green exotic (far oceanic lands conjuring) mystery, being itself a key note catering earthiness, darkness, exoticism and mystery. As well as previously pointed out Singulier possesses a salty oceanic hidden touch which charts its particular olfactory way and slightly differs the smell from the Dior Sauvage's more straightforward ambery (ambroxan dominant) woodiness. This salty vibe is kind of laundry, herbal and rooty. The final outcome (salty, spicy and earthy, with a mysterious salty laundry aura and a touch of pencil shavings) conjures me partially Prada Luna Rossa Carbon (2017) as well despite Boucheron Peculier smells more laundry/aromatic and less earthy metallic. The bottom line is that Peculier is nothing but a decently appointed cool virile new creation on the citric aromatic blue new woody trend to be chosen as alternative to more renowned and well marketed similar solutions.

Torino23 by Xerjoff

First sampling of Xerjoff Torino23, similarly inspired by Xerjoff21 and 22 by the ATP Nitto Finals held in Turin, a well-blended freshie that reminds me of 21 more than 22, certainly, a floral bouquet crossed with a fresh spicy blend, an ensemble of tuberose, rose, ylang ylang, and jasmine playing with bergamot, cardamom, and nutmeg, over a base of amber, musk, and woods. It has an air of sophistication and is quite unisex, floral but pleasantly and sophisticatedly so (think Fox in the Flowerbed, by Imaginary Authors, as a comparison). This is an easy winner for anyone, though the floral-weary might have some difficult sifting through the bouquet to find something they prefer, but I think its almost restrained use of the medley of flowers works so very well against a bit of spice. Overall, I quite like it.

Torino23 is EDP concentration, priced at $215 for 50ml, and sold via the house site as well as US retailers like Perfumology, certainly not the cheapest house on the market but in line with a lot of higher-end products.

7 out of 10

Cordovan by Banana Republic

Cordovan has a slightly dusty, more mature feel. Not sweet or modern. Feels more like a late 90s or early 2000s scent. Linear but the smell is interesting, could be the fig note. Ultimately, it does smell like a cheaper scent in the drydown but at least it's not boring and has decent performance.

I get slightly better than average projection and about 6-7 hours on clothes.

Ombre Rose L'Original by Jean-Charles Brosseau

Ombre Rose is the ultimate boudoir scent, a peach-inflected enticing whisper, the softest, most velvety white petals. Opening with aldehydes muted with stone fruit lactones and a gorgeous rosewood, then it unravels to present a pale rose with a ylang ylang fondant.

This is not the kind of powder that could choke—it is a sheer and light iris and tonka, yet the musk is vibrational, perfect for snuggle times, nuzzle times, anything in bed, really. My vintage Alfin version of the EDT has been added to my selection of fragrant nightcaps. Sweet dreams!

Sur la Route (new) by Louis Vuitton

Leaning towards a thumbs down with this one. I got a sample from the Louis Vuitton store several months ago and I'm finally wearing it today...smells like synthetic cedar with some citrus to me. Honestly, it has a similar vibe to something else I've worn from Louis Vuitton previously...possibly Orage with the citrus and cedar vibe. And, while I didn't mind Orage when I wore it years ago, they both wouldn't be mistaken for a fragrance with many or "any" naturals in them...synthetic smelling to the core.

I don't mind synthetics in perfumes if they don't completely dominate the fragrance, but unfortunately the LV fragrances smell like perfumes an android might wear for a night out on the town. Yeah, I've finally come to it on this one...thumbs down for me.

Also, this perfume like all LV perfumes will fill a room and choke people out if you overspray.

N'Aimez Que Moi by Caron

I applied N'Aimez Que Moi EDP and started listening to a French Horn solo Spotify playlist, as for some reason, it reminds me of the horn's plangent timbre. The open phrase is classic Caron, feeling like a glade within a dense, mossy forest, moths fluttering feebly on wild herbs, and the distant plaintive cries of a rose among consoling sweet violet and clove-shaded lilac. "Dry your eyes" they say, in the powdered, cloudy, misty daydream glade.

The rose, now upraised, disperses the mist with its own song, "Love Only Me." The clouds part just somewhat and rays shine down, the french horn echoes into the forest. The rose is now joined by the chorus of the woods, the arching cedars genuflect, and the refrain sings, "we will reunite my love, and all will be well." This smells of one of the truest roses, if only for a short, magical time, until the wooded chorus sends it to a blissful sleep.

This may prove to be far too precious, antique and fusty to all but the connoisseur, but I happen to find it absolutely faultless. It's poetry.