Jaguar (original)
Jaguar (1988)

Jaguar for Men by Jaguar (1988) is the debut scent from the Jaguar fragrance brand, now a part of the Lalique Group (formerly Art & Perfume). Originally, this automotive-branded fragrance house was launched by Swiss firm Loreste, and operated by them until Art & Perfume bought the license away. It was increasingly common by the end of the 1980's to see licensed branding for perfumes, starting with celebrities at first, then filtering out into other segments of the market interesting in launching scent as an entry-level product to enjoy the brand, or as an accessory. Automotive fragrance branding was still relatively new when Jaguar lent the name to Loreste, but they weren't the first, as Italian exotic car makers like Ferrari and Lamborghini had both already launched fragrances by then. Jaguar seemed to have the winning template though, and their fragrances would endure while other licenses lapsed over the years or were restarted. The distinguishing quality about Jaguar for Men is it represents an early career creation of Thierry Wasser, who was still an apprentice at Charabot when making it, and was only 19 years old at the time.

Wasser did a lot of things at a very young age as apprentice at Charabot that would later go on to become cult hits with vintage enthusiasts, including Furyo by Jacques Bogart (1988) with Ron WInnegrad the same year, and Salvador Dali pour Homme (1987) at a mere 18 years old. Already a master of rich, traditional French perfumery by then, it's no surprise he crafted such a baroque aromatic for Jaguar, who probably were clueless as to how good they truly had it. Jaguar for Men isn't particularly groundbreaking, and represents a typical aromatic fougère structure popular at the time, sitting between things like lemony Duc de Vervins by Houbigant (1985) and the more pine-forward Gucci Nobile (1988), with an immaculate cleanliness underpinning it's more-agrestic bits. The defining olfactory characteristic of Jaguar that makes it so appealing to me is the surprise gardenia note in the heart, and the unlisted incense under it all. This tiny pinch of unorthodox florality meets the dry incense to form an uncanny freshness that belies all the oakmoss, patchouli, tonka, lavender, citrus top notes, and other fern accord "stuff" that is otherwise bog-standard for the scent.

The original "wood cap" launch splash bottles made in Switzerland contain Wasser's formula, while there would be a notable edit sometime in the late 90's and 2000's when Dominique Preyssas (then of Mane) tinkered to remove some of the mustier bits from the incense and sandalwood, toning down some of the musk and amber Wasser liked playing with in his early "powerhouse" creations; these bottles are still really good, and can be noted by their "Made in Germany" markings on the back, plus a darker cap with a Jaguar logo on the top, but they also invite comparisons to Ralph Lauren Polo (1977) and Chevignon by Chevignon (1992) that the original bottles of Jaguar just didn't get because of that musk and incense. The differences are small between these two, but may matter if you fell in love with a particular version before realizing there were two. After Art & Perfume picked up the license, the formula was edited again to be soapier and more fougère; this version of the scent is still good too, and better than a lot of things Jaguar has since released, even if the same problem arises of pin-the-tail-on-the-version you first encountered. People new to Jaguar for Men can just pick one and not care. Thumbs up

In the late 1980’s, Jaguar released two versions of a new car. The XJS, a sleek V12 convertible that appeared in 1989, and a year before that, just as their first scent was coming out, there was the plain old XJ. It was also a V12 but looked like something to chauffeur a politician from one end of Parliament to the other.

And, in the same way that perfume is the affordable luxury for those who can't afford a designer dress, a bottle of scent may be the nearest many men get to owning a Jaguar.
But, instead of their eponymous pong, discerning wannabe XJS drivers in their Ford Capri's would have worn Zino (which is similar to this but much better) or maybe Cool Water if they were really on the pulse; while older, richer men like senior managers and trade union bosses would probably have wafted Aramis or Pour un Homme de Caron while driving a BMW, and not the dowdy XJ.

Jaguar the scent has the woody veneer and leather you'd expect of a luxury car brand, but the green aromatics, fousty orange, powder, spices and a hint of unwashed feet combine into something quite bizarre.
A big Bagpuss of a scent, I don't know how they ever got it past the petrol heads…

I get some orange and amber rendered sweet with a "greened out" cedar from infusing with some pine. The body of the blend is quite powdery and harsh from lavender and gardenia forming together. I get some hints of tobacco, nutmeg, and a really vague leather note.

I'll give Jaguar Original a thumbs down rating. Lagerfeld Classic styled orange crossed with a bright and pungent floral covered in powder I just can't work with. Although the Fougere side rushes in and tries to build that around into a masculine and gentlemanly scent I get an older women's fragrance vibe from it.

A fresh, synthetic hodge-podge of oranges and herbaceous notes riding a huge metallic wave from beginning to end. It's more metallic than Drakkar Noir or even Cool Water or Platinum Egoiste... we're at Lomani Pour Homme levels of dihydromyrcenol here. There's too much of it for me to even smell the flowers and tobacco and leather and moss and woods that supposedly are in this. Sergio Soldano Black is close to this, but more citric and less metallic, and I prefer it.

Projection is okay at best, and longevity on this vintage made in France formulation is 5 hours max.

Masculinity Level: Hound from The Transformers, green and metallic.

What is it about the original Jaguar fragrance that makes it so unique and universally appealing? Smooth, warm, slightly sweet, spicy pine. I have the bottle in the featured picture, with wooden cap. Mine was made in Switzerland, and it's the one I recommend (others include Germany and France). That said, the current version with a silver cap (which breaks easily) and darker green bottle is pretty good. I have a bottle of that as well at a great buy for just $15 including shipping!

Years back I remember smelling a tester of Jaguar at T.J.Maxx. One spray and I was not impressed so at that time I passed. Forward to present day and giving the scent a do over. Dark Green bottle with silver cap. Cannot believe I ever passed this up. It is beautifully composed and clean. A wonderful Bergamot opening settling into a light woody pine. This will be a go to scent for those indecisive days. A comfortable masculine fragrance that is inoffensive. So glad I rediscovered this gem. Medium projection and the only flaw I find with Jaguar is that it's a bit short on longevity.