Opium
Yves Saint Laurent (1977)

Do you want to have an idea of how trends in the perfumery field have changed? well, compare the original Opium from 1977 with the male counterpart released in 1992 (if I remember correctly) and, between the two, tell me which one seems more feminine to you... the feminine is definitely more masculine than the masculine, yes! absurd huh? true opium is a perfume that today could easily be sold and worn for men, it is dense, resinous and spicy to die for, balsamic but NOT sweet. The resins used, of unquestionable quality, are not the modern chemical ones with a permeating and omnipresent sweetish scent. The scent always remains very warm and enveloping but at the same time very dry and sharp. Beautiful trail and persistence, never cloying, never sweet, but truly narcotic and opulent. It's a resinous spicy woody that's in a league of its own compared to modern filth. The perfume I would like my partner to have.

Courtesy of the good folks at Raiders of the Lost Scent, I determined that the EDT bottle in my possession is from 1992, a year after the conversion into this particular bottle with the removable gold-trimmed cap, and this is staggeringly beautiful. This is the culmination of the style of fragrance we once called "oriental": a heady, narcotic, spicy, resinous, incensed potion. Its release in 1977 set the world ablaze with its controversial name and evocative advertising campaign. I seldom make such statements for fear of "gatekeeping" but I do suggest that anyone who truly wants to be "studied" in the art and history of perfumery should sample the juggernaut that is YSL Opium, preferably those iterations produced before 2003.

Opium is hypnosis, it has you in a trance for the first twenty minutes, especially if you choose six sprays as I did. Elements weave in and out, mandarin peels, clove conflagrations and cinnamon spells, incantations stirring the air around you. There are chewy gums and unctuous tree exudates, a pronounced tolu balsam, floral-spicy, cinnamic, vanillic, deep dark woods accents. Olibanum teardrops and myrrh pebbles, see-sawing censors straddling between the sacred and profane, whispers of the profane alternating with rapturous wails of ecstasy. Its opulence will have you easily fully realizing the inspidity of today's Kayali who and Electimuss what. A punch that feels like a caress sure beats a shrill slap across the face. Opium is a KNOCKOUT.

This fragrance exudes strength, power, and confidence. The prominent notes of cloves, cinnamon, incense, and sandalwood blend together perfectly. Surrounding the scent are plum, patchouli, and amber, which add a touch of sweetness. A deeper breath reveals a slightly animalic vibe, although it's not immediately noticeable in the air.

When I first tried it, I was put off by the initial spray, but after returning to it 5 years later, I've grown to appreciate it. Overall, I detect a slightly burnt resin with amber and powdery florals, with a few different transitions as it progresses. While I consider it unisex, it may lean towards the feminine side in modern culture. Some may see it as dated, but I would place it in a similar category as Comme Des Garcons by CDG (1994). Compared to modern releases, Opium may be considered avant-garde.

I love this perfume it takes you on a journey it's very similar to cinnabar which I also love genderless in my opinion

Review of the Eau de Toilet:

Coriander, bay leaves, clove and pimento dominate in the opening blast - after an initial burst of bergamot, mandarin, a whiffs of blood orange, which went as quickly as it arose; only a bit of an hesperidic undertone remains for a while. white peppers and fresh unripe plums are present in the background.

The drydown turns floral initially, with yang-ylang and muguet in the foreground, followed soon afterwards by a carnation note. The sweetness of the florals in enhanced by lighter impressions of jasmine and a rather timid and a darker rose; the latter is quite nonspecific on me. Fruity moments - young white peaches mainly - come and go. A bright labdanum arises and grows increasingly stronger, and with time it becomes one of the most prominent components of this mix.

The next stage sees a switch from the floral back to more spiciness, with a well-executed dark and fairly smooth myrrh impression in the foreground now; an earthy orris adds further depth, and the sweet side is maintained by a soft cinnamon input.

The base purports to be a cluster of many notes, with can be seen ans a mix of three subgroups of notes: Sweet and woody ones: an ambery restrained vanilla, a nonspecific woodsiness with the occasional glimpses of sandal wood and faint cedar. Balsaminc ones: weak incense with touches of tolu balsam - the latter a bit more evident. Add the spicy side again, with minute hints of opoponax, white musks and a soft and shadowy benzoin, with w fairly futile attempt to have castoreum and cistus infuse a bit of crispness - this remains a smooth more that a harsh combination.

I get moderate sillage very good projection, seven hours of longevity on my skin.

This is essentially a spice-centred autumnal creation that also develops an avalanche of other ingredients, which are more or less convincing on me. Overall 3.25/5

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Review of the Vintage Eau de Toilet:

Initially there is mainly mandarin and bergamot - very convincing, with the plum note being also much more noticeable. only then the other top notes are developing slowly.

In the hear notes and carnation is stronger on me, and the spice components are more in the background. the other parts are similar.

In the base of the vintage EdT the woods are more prominent than the balsams and the spices.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection, and five hours of longevity on my skin.

Overall the vintage EdP is not less complex than the more recent version. What is diffreent is the much higher quality of its ingredients, which are more intense, vivid, and have more depth and character. 3.5/5

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Review of the original Parfum:

Haven tried this a number of times over the years, it struck me as somewhat different form the current Eau de Toilet. The spices contained more of an incense and balsamic component, which was more in the foreground. The florals were more intensive and more impressive, including the even darker and richer rose, the vivid jasmine, as well as the fact that the pepper was much more intense.

More vivid, more natural and less generic ingredients, velvety, richer and more sumpteous: the original Parfum was in a class of its own. 4/5

Been searching long and hard for a fragrance to bring me back to a new house next to an orchard and farm meadow. This is it for me, until further notice - which I don't imagine will be coming soon.