Oltremare
Bois 1920 (2012)

I find this mineralic, oceany. I don’t get sweet at all, nor much rhubarb. I do get tea. Very pleasant and unusual. Juniper, maybe the mate.

Absolutely outstanding mediterranenan fragrance rich of class, virility, dynamism and "vision" and with a weird kind of vaguely vintage (musky-ambery-animalic) spark in its wonderful background (a sort of minimal castoreum-like undertone). I disagree this is an unisex fragrance since on my skin it smells uncompromisingly virile and bold. Bois 1920 Oltremare is a modern new generation mediterranean fragrance conceptually re-interpreting the classic olfactory legacy from famous old-school creations (especially of the classic 80/90's italian perfumery) rich of "well tailored virility and restraint (as several vintage 80/90's fougére as Pomellato Uomo, Azzaro Acteur or Joop Nightflight but ideally with a more hesperidic bitter substance). Bois 1920 Oltremare could be as well classified as a sort of Escentric Molecules Kinski's (namely a darker and more salty animalic beast) close relative (also fragrances as Casamorati Fiero and Milano Fragranze Piazza Affari jump partially on mind and I'd add Terre d'Hermes as well - but just in its first stage - for its initial bitter orange/citrus burst and the woody virile base). A modern broadminded charismatic and optimistic "in white starched shirt" man should be the ideal Oltremare-type of modern man, he loves traditions and loves good life and travels. Beyond the resemblances this fragrance actually exudes an its own special contemporary temperament (virile, sensual, joyful and playful). Oltremare evokes the aroma of a southern citrus grove located close to the sea (with a real concert of woodsy, grassy, hesperidic and slightly ozonic nuances). It possesses the blue-vibe (namely a muscular combination of green/citrus elements, fresh sparkling spices, "liquid" woods, dry leafy astringent florals and synth ambergris- ambroxan). It is actually a green-blue kind of fragrance with citric, floral and musky/ambery elements standing out. Grassy, hesperidic, salty and woodsy notes (bitter orange, bergamot, grapefruit etc) mingle together over a warm ambery (ambergris) base. Geranium is the main floral pattern (fresh, leafy, stiff) supported by violet leaves while rhubarb provides freshly sparkling fizziness. The opening is deeply citric and herbal "with a sort blend of citrus and weed's vibe". Rhubarb, juniper, paraguayan tea and a touch of ozonics provide a balancing fresh, fluidy and whide-blue effect. Dry down is dominanted by a musky ambergris quite restrained and vaguely stuffy (hints of castoreum?). This styffy vibe (somewhat wild and kind of naphthalenic), as connected with aromatics and weeds (with an ostensible hidden and minimal cannabis-like vibe) and with acid citrus, elicits a wonderful "remote" vintage animalic twist at same time barbershop and modern a la Escentric Molecules Kinski (hard to find the right words to well describe it). The bottom line is this is an elegant and mature stuff, perfect for summer time holidays in Sicily or further souther lands surrounded by sea (and with lot of citrus groves) and rich of traditions and sense of classic italian elegance. Performances are on the average on my skin.

Tried this in a quest for more rhubarb. Very disappointed, while the rhubarb is there it is sweet and not very tart. And to echo NickZee, this is most certainly VERY feminine leaning unisex. Perhaps it's me and tea notes, I don't know - I find Silver Mountain Water very feminine leaning also.


I didn't give a negative despite being disappointed because it is very nice - on my girlfriend, not me. It has staying power for a summer frag which is impressive. If the rhubarb was more tart I think I could pull it off, it's just too fruity.

Opens with a nuclear blast of citrus and rhubarb - almost photorealistic, crispy, crunchy rhubarb. This is an incredibly tangy, zesty fragrance citrus fragrance with a warm base of amber, sandalwood, and patchouli. A bit of ozone from the violet, a bit of floral, and an herbal quality from the tea and mate. It does smell similar to other fragrances I've smelt before, but I can't quite place which. I think that it might be a female fragrance that it reminds me of, as this definitely leans more feminine to my nose, though it's still quite unisex. This is definitely evocative of dark, deep blue waters in the Mediterannean, and it's fantastically refreshing. Will be wearing this a lot in the hot weather.

Here are the notes according to the Bois 1920 website.

Top: Green Lemon, Italian Bergamot, Brazillian Sweet Orange, Bigarade, Sicilian Yellow Lemon, Limette

Heart: Mate Leaves, Red Tea, Juniper Berries, Rhubarb, Egyptian Geranium, Violet Leaves, Dutch Hyacinth, Mugane™

Dry down: Indian Sandalwood, White Musk, Ambergris, Indonesian Patchouli, Orcanox™

Fresh rhubarb is the distinctive feature here, folks. Very tart and bracing, and smells just like a freshly-cut stalk. Very crisp and zesty. Some silvery violet leaf lurking in the background. A lightly sweet musky in the dry-down. Interesting, not compelling in my estimation.

Smells like a women's fruitchouli (mademoissel, miss dior, etc.) but a bit lighter. Very nice but not appropriate for macho men and done too many times for women.